MuonPi-Wiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Raspberry Pi Setup

2022-07-20T14:48:04Z

Hgz:

(Requirements: Raspberry Pi Versions 0, 2, 3, 4 (with 40-pin GPIO connector) )

This article will introduce to you, how to set up a Raspberry Pi from scratch with all software needed to run the detector hardware.

DISCLAIMER: If not stated otherwise, this tutorial is developed on Raspian 10 Buster.

__TOC__

= Setup =
=== Basic ===
* Create a fresh install of RaspberryPi OS (at least Buster) according to the [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/ tutorial]
* Update your system:
sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade
* Change the default password of the user <code>pi</code>:
passwd
* (Optional) For a headless install (without monitor and mouse/keyboard), we recommend following this [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/headless.md guide].
=== Interfaces ===
sudo raspi-config
* '''Enable the serial interface''' (UART) and '''disable the login shell''' via the UART:
3 Interface Options -> P6 Serial Port -> No (login shell over serial) -> Yes (serial port)
* Enable I2C Interface:
3 Interface Options -> P5 I2C -> Yes (enable)
* (Optional) '''Enable SSH''':
3 Interface Options -> P2 SSH -> Yes (enable)

=== Network ===
By default, the RPi is configured to automatically obtain an IP address when a connection is available and DHCP in your local network is active (this should be the case for most local/home networks).
If you prefer a fixed IP address in a local network: edit the file /etc/dhcpcd.conf. Use the template and uncomment the "Example Static IP Configuration" section with your desired IP address.
If network access should be established via WiFi, either configure it via the network configuration wizard in the graphical desktop environment (usually network icon in the system bar), or manually following these steps (either method is fine):
* Make sure that the wpa_supplicant package is installed:
sudo apt install wpasupplicant
* edit the file /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf:
sudo nano /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
the configuration should look like this (non-relevant lines not shown):
update_config=1
country=DE
network={
ssid="<your network ssid>"
psk="<your wifi password>"
key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
}
Enter your WiFi's SSID and password in the indicated fields.
Finally, restart the system that the changes take effect.

=== MuonPi software installation ===
(Requirements: a MuonPi board plugged onto the GPIO connector of the RPi)
* First, update your system to make sure, certificates and dependencies are up to date. This might take a while depending on how regularly the system is being updated.
sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade

* Then, add the MuonPi apt repository to your system:
sudo sh -c "curl https://archive.muonpi.org/muondetector.public.key | gpg --dearmor > /etc/apt/trusted.gpg.d/muondetector.gpg"

for Raspberry Pi OS Buster do:
sudo sh -c "echo deb <nowiki>https://archive.muonpi.org/raspbian buster main</nowiki> > /etc/apt/sources.list.d/muondetector.list"
for Raspberry Pi OS Bullseye do:
sudo sh -c "echo deb <nowiki>https://archive.muonpi.org/raspbian bullseye main</nowiki> > /etc/apt/sources.list.d/muondetector.list"
* Update the repositories again:
sudo apt update
* Install the muondetector-daemon package and it's dependencies:
sudo apt install muondetector-daemon
* Optional: install the Graphical User Interface (GUI) program to monitor and control the MuonPi locally.
sudo apt install muondetector-gui
{{Note|Note that if you want to use the gui on the raspberrypi, it is recommended to use the Raspberrypi OS with Desktop preinstalled.|reminder}}

* The GUI can connect to the MuonPi over network as well, so it can be installed on other computers in the local network. Currently, binary packages for Raspbian, Ubuntu and Windows are available. The Linux-based versions can be installed from the package repositories (execute steps 1,2 and 4 from this list). The Windows program can be downloaded directly from https://archive.muonpi.org and installed by simply unpacking the zip-archive.

=== Login with your user credentials (only once) ===

Before taking the MuonPi detector into operation, you have to set your credentials for publishing data messages to the server via [http://mqtt.org/ MQTT] protocol on first start. This can be managed in two ways, one secure and one where your credentials appear as plain text in the config file:
==== The Recommended Method ====
In a bash shell on the MuonPi, run the command <code>muondetector-login</code>.

'''Note that for the software version 2.0.0 the command to run is <code>sudo runuser -u muonuser -- muondetector-login</code> instead.'''

When asked for sudo access, enter the password of your raspberry pi user.
When asked for your user name and password, enter the credentials supplied to you by a MounPi.org official. The credentials are stored (not in clear text) for all further telemetry connections.

==== Alternative Method ====
Uncomment the <code>mqtt_user</code> and <code>mqtt_password</code> options in <code>/etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf</code> and type your personal username and password into these fields between the quotation marks. Be aware, that these credentials are written in plain text into this file and can be retrieved by malware attacks. However, if you operate a station inside a home network and set up a strong ssh authentication (see above), you should be relatively safe.

=== Start the Daemon ===
The daemon should be enabled and started automatically after installation and on every reboot. However, when changing items in the config file, the changes have to be made effective by a daemon restart:
sudo systemctl restart muondetector-daemon.service

To see the current status of the daemon service use following command:
systemctl status muondetector-daemon.service

It can happen that the status shows 'failed' in red, usually a restart of the daemon service resolves this.

If the service should not enable itself by default the status shows a grey 'not loaded'. To enable the service use:
sudo systemctl enable muondetector-daemon.service

= Configuration =

Edit the configuration file /etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf: <code>nano /etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf</code>.
Change the settings according to your needs or leave them untouched, if unsure. The comments in the config file should guide you through any required modifications. One option, however, describes the placement of your detector. If you like, choose a stationID descriptor, eg.:
(file: <code>/etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf</code>)
<nowiki>#</nowiki> A unique identifier of the user's station
<nowiki>#</nowiki> leave on default when the user operates a single station
<nowiki>#</nowiki> all detectors of the user are distinguishable on the basis of this id
stationID = "HomeOffice"

(anything which best describes the location of your detector like e.g. "GarageSW", "Bldg16Lab105", "AtticNE"). If you operate only one stationary detector, it may as well be left on the default ID which is "0" (zero).

'''Important''': When operating multiple detectors (under the same MQTT user account, see above) the stationID descriptor '''must''' be unique for each detector.

User detectors gallery

2022-02-08T22:37:32Z

Hgz:

<div>
<gallery mode="packed-hover" widths=350px heights=300px>
Image:MuonPi-UserSetUp1.jpg|Users setup of the MuonPi detector next to the router.
Image:User detector dl4ina.jpg|User setup of DL4INA with single-channel connected hexagonal scintillator.
Image:User_detector_slu.jpg| User setup of slu with custom 3D printed encasing
Image:Detector_user_mw1cf.jpg| User setup of mw1cfwith, from his [https://mw1cfnradio.blogspot.com/2020/12/a-minor-departure-from-things-entirely.html blogpost]
Image:Detector_user_mmo.jpg| User setup of mmo with operating on a Raspberry Pi 0 WH
Image:MunoPi case in the dark.jpg| Custom enclosure for the complete detector setup. Including the Raspberry Pi, MuonPi HAT, and a hexagonal Scintillator. 3D Model was made by user 'slu' from the community.
Image:Detector-photo-phyronix.jpg| Detector with one of the first Lite-Boards in a 3d-printed case. User Phyronix12.
</gallery>
</div>

File:Detector-photo-phyronix.jpg

2022-02-08T22:35:06Z

Hgz:

How do I get a detector?

2022-02-07T16:17:12Z

Hgz:

A collection of frequently asked questions on how to enroll the process of obtaining one of our detectors can be found in this [https://forum.muonpi.org/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=18 forum FAQ post]. Note that we can provide a only a limited amount of fully assembled boards. Therefore we appreciate that users with the appropriate skills and equipment assemble their HAT boards themselves (following our [[Assembly Guide|HAT board assembly guide]]). We gladly provide bare PCBs and DIY solder kits in those cases. The actual detector, i.e. the packaged scintillator with SiPM photo sensor and preamplifier will be provided, if required.

How do I get a detector?

2022-02-07T16:13:32Z

Hgz:

A collection of frequently asked questions on how to enroll the process of obtaining one of our detectors can be found in this [https://forum.muonpi.org/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=18 forum FAQ post]. Note that we can provide a only a limited amount of fully assembled boards. Therefore we appreciate that users with the appropriate skills and equipment assemble their HAT boards themselves. We gladly provide bare PCBs and DIY solder kits in those cases. The actual detector, i.e. the packaged scintillator with SiPM photo sensor and preamplifier will be provided in any case.

How do I get a detector?

2022-02-07T16:02:58Z

Hgz: Created page with "A collection of frequently asked questions on how to enroll the process of obtaining one of our detectors can be found in this [https://forum.muonpi.org/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1..."

A collection of frequently asked questions on how to enroll the process of obtaining one of our detectors can be found in this [https://forum.muonpi.org/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=18 forum FAQ post].

Assembly Guide

2022-02-07T15:52:46Z

Hgz: /* The Kit */

This is a guide on how to populate our MuonPi-PCB based on the soldering kit. You can obtain a kit, a fully assembled PCB (limited availability) or only the unmounted PCB by contacting us [http://www.muonpi.org/contact.html here].

All components in this kit (except for the pin headers) are surface-mount devices (SMD).
Most of these parts are only a few millimeters in size and are prone jump very far, should you slip with the tweezers.
Soldering these requires steady hands and a bit of technique, but this guide aims to help you with that.

== The Kit ==
The Kit contains all the parts you need to set up your very own Raspberry Pi based particle detector.

Contents of the Kit are:
* The plastic scintillator (generously provided by [https://eljentechnology.com/ Eljen Technology])
* The bare printed circuit board ([[Muonpi board]])
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satellite_navigation GNSS] antenna
* Components to mount on the PCB (Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, ICs, etc.)
* Bill of materials (BOM). There's also an [https://muonpi.org/ibom.php interactive online version] which simplifies the search for components on the board and has a place-and-tick checkmark for the already mounted components to maintain the overview during soldering.

The individual components of the kit are fixed to a name tag using tape, as can be seen in the picture.
[[File:Parts-packaging.jpg|thumb|Example of how parts in the detector PCB kit are packaged]]
Because of the size and difficulty labeling the parts, they are packaged using paper labels and clear Scotch tape.
Getting the parts out of their packaging has to be done quite carefully, as they are easy get lost. Also, remove the Scotch tape from the ICs very slowly to prevent sudden static discharge which would destroy the chips.

== Tools ==
The bare essential tools are:
* soldering iron
* solder
* (metal) tweezers
* solder fume extractor
additional:
* flux
* solder wick
* vise or helping hands
* scalpel/scissors
* magnifying glass

Additionally, we recommend to choose a brightl workplace, as dim lights and small components can lead to eye strain and head aches.

Generally,the smaller the tip of your soldering iron is, the better, for small component soldering at least.
Of course if you have other solder tips, like ones with a solder depot, you can use those too. 
In any case whatever tools you need to get the job done, are the correct tools to use.

== Documentation ==
The schematic, layout and BOM of the current hardware version can be found on the [https://easyeda.com/MuonPi/cosmic_shower_detector_v1-52b8a2536bb6468e9f48412a774951d0_copy_copy easyEDA project page].
While soldering, finding the right pad, where a specific components has to go, can be quite difficult.
The labels on the PCB are small and space for them is very limited which makes some of them hard to read and find.
To help you find the correct solder pads, we recommend to have a computer nearby where you can open the [https://easyeda.com/editor#id=ad78628187d94b9cb54d8735233128d7 schematics] and use the search function.
Alternatively you can print out the layout that is attached on the easyEDA project page.

=== Mounting Options ===
The BOM specifies multiple mounting options, such as: "Full", "Single Channel", "External Bias Supply", "Fixed Input Polarity".

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Mounting Option !! Description !! Do Not Mount !! Mount !! Modify !! Remarks
|-
| Full || dual channel, dual polarity, on-board bias supply || R515, L503, R115/R215, LED406, P400 || || || Default mounting option
|-
| Single Channel || Channel 1 only, default input configuration || D502, L200, R200, R202, R203, R204, R205, R206, R212, R215, R301, R302, R305, R309, R312, R404, R513, C200, C201, C202, C203, C204, C205, C210, C211, C301, C302, C305, U200, U202, U504, LED404, X2 || || || single channel
|-
| External Bias Supply || use plug-on DC/DC converter for bias voltage generation instead of on-board regulator || U502, L500, D500, C505, R501, R500, R502 || R515 or L503 || || bias voltage supplied by plug-on DC/DC converter module for e.g. supply of other SiPM types (e.g. Hamamatsu)
|}
The default configuration of the kit contains only one scintillator, therefore only one channel of the detector electronics will be used at a time.
In that case, the "Single Channel" mounting option would be sufficient.
However the number of components in the kit follows the "Full" configuration, and mounting all components is still recommended.
Just mounting all the parts that are included in the kit will lead to a working PCB with both channels working.
Please [https://muonpi.org/contact.html contact us], if you are interested in a two scintillator setup.

== Assembly ==
First things first, you should setup your workspace with all parts layed out, along with the BOM and all the tools you might need.
Personally, I like to sort the parts into categories: Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, ICs and others.
This helps to save time and gives a quick overview of your soldering progress.
In principle the choice which components to mount first comes down to personal preference.
A helpful guideline is to mount parts depending on their height.
Lower, smaller parts should be mounted first, as to not interfere too much in the later stages of assembly.
This is why the GPIO headers should be among the last components to be mounted.

Once you are set up, you can turn on your soldering iron and fume extractor and start soldering.

=== Tips on SMD soldering ===
SMD components are small and difficult to solder.
The easiest components to solder are the resistors and capacitors.
Start with these to get comfortable with SMD soldering first, then proceed to the more difficult ICs. 
A quick guide to SMD soldering can be found at [https://www.sparkfun.com/marcomm/SFE03-0010-KitCard-SolderingSMD-ReaderSpreads.pdf sparkfun.com].

Be careful with the tip of the iron and the PCB. Too much heat and scraping of the pads can remove the top layer from the PCB or even rip the pad off the PCB.
The later, depending on the pad this happens to, is very likely to completely brick the board and rendering it unusable.

=== Soldering Workflow ===
[[File:Closeup of one soldered pad and a resistor.jpg|thumb|left|Closeup of a pad with solder and a resistor]]
Take your BOM and choose one of the resistor/capacitor values to begin with and identify the pad label, where the part is supposed to be placed.
Now take your soldering iron and heat one side of the pad. After a couple of seconds of heating, add some solder to the pad.
Take out one of the components out of it's packaging and grab onto it with the tweezers as indicated in the picture on the right.
Heat the solder blob and slide the component into the molten solder from the side.
This ensures covering of the components contacts.
Placing the component into the blob from above can lead to solder bridges underneath the component, which will render the component useless.

Once one side of the component is fixed, it's good practice to lightly press down on the component and remelt the solder.
Doing this will help to mount the component flush to the board.
Although not always necessary, doing this will help to avoid solder bridges, especially between the legs of ICs.
[[File:Flush component.jpg|x300px|thumb|right|Component lifted on one side (top); pressed down and after remelting the solder (bottom)]]

It is a good idea to cross out the components on the BOM once they are soldered.
Should in the end a label on the BOM be left unmarked you can check to not miss any components.

When you are finished soldering all parts of one kind, pause and check you haven't missed any.
Only then move on to the next group of parts.

=== Integrated Circuits (ICs) ===
Once all passive Components are placed and double checked, we can move on to the integrated circuits.
Soldering these is considerably more difficult, especially the ADC and DAC (U401 & U402 in v3.x) have a very small pad pitch.
Solder bridges are almost unavoidable and need to be dealt with.

First, solder is added to one pad on a corner of the IC footprint.
Then, just like the passive components, the IC is moved into the molten solder.
It is very important to align all the legs of the IC on their respective pads.
Proceed to fix one of the other legs, preferably a leg on the diagonally opposite side.
The remaining unsoldered legs can now be soldered to the board.

If solder bridges are created, they need to be removed.
One possible method to remove solder bridges is the usage of flux.
Flux is a mixture of multiple compounds that remove and prevent build up of oxides on the solder blob.
Additionally it increases the surface tension of the molten solder and therefor promotes splitting of solder blobs.
So just using a good amount of flux can fix solder bridges.

However if there is too much solder on the pads, bridges cannot be fixed just using flux. In that case we need to remove some solder.
Solder wicks are very useful for this task as its tight copper webbing wicks up any excess solder.
Place the wick on the solder blob and using the hot soldering iron, press the wick on the solder from above.
After a while, once the wick is hot enough, the solder will melt and be picked up by the wick.
Remove the wick and soldering iron simultaneously, otherwise the wick will be soldered to the pad instead, and pulling on the wick in that case can rip the pad off of the PCB.

In the timelapse you might be able to catch, how I soldered the ADC and DAC (U401 & U402 in v3.x).
Since the pitch is very small and solder bridges are very likely, I didn't even bother trying to avoid them.
After fixing the IC in place on one leg, I added a lot of solder to all pins and pads in one big blob.
With the addition of flux, most of the solder was removed using the solder wick, in the hopes that some solder would remain under the legs.
On first sight it seemed to work, but testing of the board revealed that something did not work.
Knowing this technique is not 100% reliable, a quick reheat with careful addition of small amounts of solder fixed the issue and the board was fully operational.

{{#evt:service=youtube|id=E3kZMtjD76c|alignment=right|container=frame|description=Timelapse of IC soldering ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3kZMtjD76c link to youtube])|dimensions=480}}

=== Hints and Tricks ===
There are some known points prone to failure during mounting which require increased attention. Following is a (growing) list of those potential pitfalls and some useful hints arising from our mounting experience as well as from user feedback:
* The marking for pin 1 of U102/U202 (SN74LVC1G3157) is very difficult to recognize. When you place the IC in such a way that you are able to read the printed package marking (e.g. through a magnifying glass or microscope) in a normal orientation, i.e. from left to right, then pin 1 should be at the lower left corner.
* When soldering the edge-mount SMA connector, make sure to supply enough heat (or power) to the soldering iron tip. On the other hand, do not stay with the tip too long at the connector since an excess of heat may damage the connectors dielectric.
* Be careful when soldering the u.Fl (miniature coax) connectors. Do not let the solder touch the connector rim! Apply plenty of solder to the Gnd pins to bridge the gap to the lateral pads.
* The current limiting resistors for the LEDs in the default BOM are chosen such that the LEDs are rather bright. In order to reduce the brightness, see the recommendations from [https://forum.muonpi.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=22 this forum post]. With the default resistors in place the LEDs are intensively illuminating your room at night :)

== Testing the board ==
'''How-To:'''
# Assemble the MuonPi-PCB as described in this guide
# [[Raspberry_Pi_Setup#MuonPi_Setup|Software Setup]]
# [[Hardware_Setup|Hardware Setup]]
To test your fully assembled board, follow the Software- and Hardware-Setup How-To.
Once everything is installed and connected your MuonPi is ready to boot.
Since the Version 2.0 of the muondetector-deamon will set default values for the thresholds and bias-voltage.
With these defaults the blue Ch1-LED should start flashing irregularly.
You are now seeing particles pass through your scintillator!

Raspberry Pi Setup

2022-01-05T21:30:00Z

Hgz: /* MuonPi software installation */

(Requirements: Raspberry Pi Versions 0, 2, 3, 4 (with 40-pin GPIO connector) )

This article will introduce to you, how to set up a Raspberry Pi from scratch with all software needed to run the detector hardware.

DISCLAIMER: If not stated otherwise, this tutorial is developed on Raspian 10 Buster.

__TOC__
= Guided Setup =
This is the recommended way of setting up the muondetector software.

# Download the latest muondetector [https://archive.muonpi.org/image/latest/ image]. If you want to use the detector headless or without graphical user interface, select the -lite version, otherwise select the -gui version. If you prefer to build your own version of the image, check out the [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector-image repository].
# Install the image onto an SD-Card: [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/computers/getting-started.html#installing-images-on-linux Linux] [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/computers/getting-started.html#installing-images-on-mac-os MacOS] [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/computers/getting-started.html#installing-images-on-windows Windows]
# (Optional) Setup [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/computers/configuration.html#setting-up-a-headless-raspberry-pi headless] network. SSH is already enabled per default in the provided images.
# Boot your RaspberryPi
# Open a login console
## Per SSH, or
## Open a terminal on the RaspberryPi
# Follow the Prompts in the terminal
# Update your system
sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade
[[File:Screenshot 2021-07-29 22-32-37.png|frameless|center]]

= Manual Setup =
=== Basic ===
* Create a fresh install of RaspberryPi OS according to the [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/ tutorial]
* Update your system:
sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade
* Change the default password of the user <code>pi</code>:
passwd
* (Optional) For an headless install (without monitor and mouse/keyboard), we recommend following this [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/headless.md guide].
=== Interfaces ===
sudo raspi-config
* '''Enable the serial interface''' (UART) and '''disable the login shell''' via the UART:
3 Interface Options -> P6 Serial Port -> No (login shell over serial) -> Yes (serial port)
* Enable I2C Interface:
3 Interface Options -> P5 I2C -> Yes (enable)
* (Optional) '''Enable SSH''':
3 Interface Options -> P2 SSH -> Yes (enable)

=== Network ===
By default, the RPi is configured to automatically obtain an IP address when a connection is available and DHCP in your local network is active (this should be the case for most local/home networks).
If you prefer a fixed IP address in a local network: edit the file /etc/dhcpcd.conf. Use the template and uncomment the "Example Static IP Configuration" section with your desired IP address.
If network access should be established via WiFi, either configure it via the network configuration wizard in the graphical desktop environment (usually network icon in the system bar), or manually following these steps (either method is fine):
* Make sure that the wpa_supplicant package is installed:
sudo apt install wpasupplicant
* edit the file /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf:
sudo nano /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
the configuration should look like this (non-relevant lines not shown):
update_config=1
country=DE
network={
ssid="<your network ssid>"
psk="<your wifi password>"
key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
}
Enter your WiFi's SSID and password in the indicated fields.
Finally, restart the system that the changes take effect.

=== MuonPi software installation ===
(Requirements: a MuonPi board plugged onto the GPIO connector of the RPi)
* First, update your system to make sure, certificates and dependencies are up to date. This might take a while depending on how regularly the system is being updated.
sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade

* Then, add the MuonPi apt repository to your system:
sudo sh -c "curl https://archive.muonpi.org/muondetector.public.key | gpg --dearmor > /etc/apt/trusted.gpg.d/muondetector.gpg"

for Raspberry Pi OS Buster do:
sudo sh -c "echo deb <nowiki>https://archive.muonpi.org/raspbian buster main</nowiki> > /etc/apt/sources.list.d/muondetector.list"
for Raspberry Pi OS Bullseye do:
sudo sh -c "echo deb <nowiki>https://archive.muonpi.org/raspbian bullseye main</nowiki> > /etc/apt/sources.list.d/muondetector.list"
* Update the repositories again:
sudo apt update
* Install the muondetector-daemon package and it's dependencies:
sudo apt install muondetector-daemon
* Optional: install the Graphical User Interface (GUI) program to monitor and control the MuonPi locally.
sudo apt install muondetector-gui
{{Note|Note that if you want to use the gui on the raspberrypi, it is recommended to use the Raspberrypi OS with Desktop preinstalled.|reminder}}

* The GUI can connect to the MuonPi over network as well, so it can be installed on other computers in the local network. Currently, binary packages for Raspbian, Ubuntu and Windows are available. The Linux-based versions can be installed from the package repositories (execute steps 1,2 and 4 from this list). The Windows program can be downloaded directly from https://archive.muonpi.org and installed by simply unpacking the zip-archive.

=== Login with your user credentials (only once) ===

Before taking the MuonPi detector into operation, you have to set your credentials for publishing data messages to the server via [http://mqtt.org/ MQTT] protocol on first start. This can be managed in two ways, one secure and one where your credentials appear as plain text in the config file:
==== The Recommended Method ====
In a bash shell on the MuonPi, run the command <code>muondetector-login</code>.

'''Note that for the software version 2.0.0 the command to run is <code>sudo runuser -u muonuser -- muondetector-login</code> instead.'''

When asked for sudo access, enter the password of your raspberry pi user.
When asked for your user name and password, enter the credentials supplied to you by a MounPi.org official. The credentials are stored (not in clear text) for all further telemetry connections.

==== Alternative Method ====
Uncomment the <code>mqtt_user</code> and <code>mqtt_password</code> options in <code>/etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf</code> and type your personal username and password into these fields between the quotation marks. Be aware, that these credentials are written in plain text into this file and can be retrieved by malware attacks. However, if you operate a station inside a home network and set up a strong ssh authentication (see above), you should be relatively safe.

=== Start the Daemon ===
The daemon should be enabled and started automatically after installation and on every reboot. However, when changing items in the config file, the changes have to be made effective by a daemon restart:
sudo systemctl restart muondetector-daemon.service

To see the current status of the daemon service use following command:
systemctl status muondetector-daemon.service

It can happen that the status shows 'failed' in red, usually a restart of the daemon service resolves this.

If the service should not enable itself by default the status shows a grey 'not loaded'. To enable the service use:
sudo systemctl enable muondetector-daemon.service

= Configuration =

Edit the configuration file /etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf: <code>nano /etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf</code>.
Change the settings according to your needs or leave them untouched, if unsure. The comments in the config file should guide you through any required modifications. One option, however, describes the placement of your detector. If you like, choose a stationID descriptor, eg.:
(file: <code>/etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf</code>)
<nowiki>#</nowiki> A unique identifier of the user's station
<nowiki>#</nowiki> leave on default when the user operates a single station
<nowiki>#</nowiki> all detectors of the user are distinguishable on the basis of this id
stationID = "HomeOffice"

(anything which best describes the location of your detector like e.g. "GarageSW", "Bldg16Lab105", "AtticNE"). If you operate only one stationary detector, it may as well be left on the default ID which is "0" (zero).

'''Important''': When operating multiple detectors (under the same MQTT user account, see above) the stationID descriptor '''must''' be unique for each detector.

GUI and Detector Operation

2022-01-01T17:28:38Z

Hgz: /* Finding the right threshold */

This article will explain to best operate the detector and how to use the GUI

DISCLAIMER: Tutorial written based on [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector/releases/tag/v2.0.2 GUI version 2.0.2]
__TOC__

= Detector Operation =

== Finding the right threshold ==
There are several ways to find the right detector threshold. In general, one aims to minimize the amount of electronic noise while not sacrificing real detector counts.
* Method 0: The choice of threshold should always be guided by the expected integrated muon flux per m2 and second in the detector. For our large detector (25cm x 12.5 cm), this is roughly 3.5Hz. For our small hexagonal detector, this is roughly 1Hz. For a more in-depth choice of threshold, follow the other methods.
* Method 1: Using an oscilloscope (details to be added)
* Method 2: Using the energy processor (details to be added)
* Method 3: Another way to accomplish this, and without having to use additional equipment, is a threshold scan using the GUI. Here, the software is automatically setting different threshold levels and measuring the number of counts measured per time interval. Thus, by creating a graph showing count rate versus threshold, one can make an informed decision on how to choose the right threshold level.
# Open GUI and navigate to the "Scans" page.
# Set "UBXRATE" as observable and "THR1" (if using channel one of the board) or "THR2" (if using channel two). Select meaningful values for the scan range: test by hand (using the Threshold slider) to find a high count rate (blue LED on HAT board permanently on) and where the counts practically disappear (blue LED permanently off). Those to values can be set as "Scan range from" and "To". To get good statistics, choose 0.0025 as step size and 20s as "Meas. time interval".
# Press "Start scan". The scan might take several minutes, depending on your effective scan range. The progress is displayed on the bottom of the page.
# When the scan is done, right-click on the y-axis of the plot and select "Log Y" to show the plot in log scale.
# Choosing the right threshold value. The result in your GUI should look similar to Screenshot 1 in the gallery below. A steep drop in count rate for very low thresholds turns into a less steep drop. At this point, the electronic background is effectively cut and only real detector signals are measured. To avoid measuring a great number of dark counts (signal-like events produced by the photosensors) one wants to set the threshold well above the point where the slope changes. In this example, we chose a value 20mV above that point. In screenshot 2 the data is fitted with an exponential decay function with three decay constants for reference. The data was taken with a large (25cm x 12.5 cm) detector.
# The threshold that was found across the previous steps should be persisted to the non-volatile memory of the DAC device. This is achieved by clicking the "Store DAC settings" button on the left side bar of the GUI. In this way, the new threshold is automatically set after restart or after a power cycle.

<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Threshold Scan Log.PNG|Screenshot 1: GUI Scan page with scan settings
Threshold Scan Log fit.png|Screenshot 2: Fit of the plotted data. An exponential decay function with three decay constants was assumed.
</gallery>

GUI and Detector Operation

2022-01-01T17:20:52Z

Hgz: /* Finding the right threshold */

This article will explain to best operate the detector and how to use the GUI

DISCLAIMER: Tutorial written based on [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector/releases/tag/v2.0.2 GUI version 2.0.2]
__TOC__

= Detector Operation =

== Finding the right threshold ==
There are several ways to find the right detector threshold. In general, one aims to minimize the amount of electronic noise while not sacrificing real detector counts.
* Method 0: The choice of threshold should always be guided by the expected integrated muon flux per m2 and per second in the detector. For our large detector (25cm x 12.5 cm), this is roughly 3.5Hz. For our small hexagonal detector, this is roughly 1Hz. For a more in-depth choice of threshold, follow the other methods.
* Method 1: Using an oscilloscope (details to be added)
* Method 2: Using the energy processor (details to be added)
* Method 3: Another way to accomplish this, and without having to use additional equipment, is a threshold scan using the GUI. Here, the software is automatically setting different threshold levels and measuring the number of counts measured per time interval. Thus, by creating a graph showing count rate versus threshold, one can make an informed decision on how to choose the right threshold level.
# Open GUI and navigate to the "Scans" page.
# Set "UBXRATE" as observable and "THR1" (if using channel one of the board) or "THR2" (if using channel two). Select meaningful values for the scan range: test by hand (using the Threshold slider) to find a high count rate (blue LED on HAT board permanently on) and where the counts practically disappear (blue LED permanently off). Those to values can be set as "Scan range from" and "To". To get good statistics, choose 0.0025 as step size and 20s as "Meas. time interval".
# Press "Start scan". The scan might take several minutes, depending on your effective scan range. The progress is displayed on the bottom of the page.
# When the scan is done, right-click on the y-axis of the plot and select "Log Y" to show the plot in log scale.
# Choosing the right threshold value. The result in your GUI should look similar to Screenshot 1 in the gallery below. A steep drop in count rate for very low thresholds turns into a less steep drop. At this point, the electronic background is effectively cut and only real detector signals are measured. To avoid measuring a great number of dark counts (signal-like events produced by the photosensors) one wants to set the threshold well above the point where the slope changes. In this example, we chose a value 20mV above that point. In screenshot 2 the data is fitted with an exponential decay function with three decay constants for reference. The data was taken with a large (25cm x 12.5 cm) detector.
# The threshold that was found across the previous steps should be persisted to the non-volatile memory of the DAC device. This is achieved by clicking the "Store DAC settings" button on the left side bar of the GUI. In this way, the new threshold is automatically set after restart or after a power cycle.

<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Threshold Scan Log.PNG|Screenshot 1: GUI Scan page with scan settings
Threshold Scan Log fit.png|Screenshot 2: Fit of the plotted data. An exponential decay function with three decay constants was assumed.
</gallery>

GUI and Detector Operation

2022-01-01T17:14:11Z

Hgz: /* Finding the right threshold */

This article will explain to best operate the detector and how to use the GUI

DISCLAIMER: Tutorial written based on [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector/releases/tag/v2.0.2 GUI version 2.0.2]
__TOC__

= Detector Operation =

== Finding the right threshold ==
There are several ways to find the right detector threshold. In general, one aims to minimize the amount of electronic noise while not sacrificing real detector counts.
* Method 0: The choice of threshold should always be guided by the expected integrated muon flux per m2 and per second in the detector. For our large detector (25cm x 12.5 cm), this is roughly 3.5Hz. For our small hexagonal detector, this is roughly 1Hz. For a more in-depth choice of threshold, follow the other methods.
* Method 1: Using an oscilloscope (details to be added)
* Method 2: Using the energy processor (details to be added)
* Method 3: Another way to accomplish this, and without having to use additional equipment, is a threshold scan using the GUI. Here, the software is automatically setting different threshold levels and measuring the number of counts measured per time interval. Thus, by creating a graph showing count rate versus threshold, one can make an informed decision on how to choose the right threshold level.
# Open GUI and navigate to the "Scans" page.
# Set "UBXRATE" as observable and "THR1" (if using channel one of the board) or "THR2" (if using channel two). Select meaningful values for the scan range: test by hand (using the Threshold slider) to find a high count rate (blue LED on HAT board permanently on) and where the counts practically disappear (blue LED permanently off). Those to values can be set as "Scan range from" and "To". To get good statistics, choose 0.0025 as step size and 20s as "Meas. time interval".
# Press "Start scan". The scan might take several minutes, depending on your effective scan range. The progress is displayed on the bottom of the page.
# When the scan is done, right-click on the y-axis of the plot and select "Log Y" to show the plot in log scale.
# Choosing the right threshold value. The result in your GUI should look similar to Screenshot 1 in the gallery below. A steep drop in count rate for very low thresholds turns into a less steep drop. At this point, the electronic background is effectively cut and only real detector signals are measured. To avoid measuring a great number of dark counts (signal-like events produced by the photosensors) one wants to set the threshold well above the point where the slope changes. In this example, we chose a value 20mV above that point. In screenshot 2 the data is fitted with an exponential decay function with three decay constants for reference. The data was taken with a large (25cm x 12.5 cm) detector.
# The threshold that was found across the previous steps should be persisted to the non-volatile memory of the DAC device. This is achieved by clicking the "store DAC values" button on the left side bar of the GUI. In this way, the new threshold is automatically set after restart or after a power cycle.

<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Threshold Scan Log.PNG|Screenshot 1: GUI Scan page with scan settings
Threshold Scan Log fit.png|Screenshot 2: Fit of the plotted data. An exponential decay function with three decay constants was assumed.
</gallery>

GUI and Detector Operation

2022-01-01T17:07:33Z

Hgz: /* Finding the right threshold */

This article will explain to best operate the detector and how to use the GUI

DISCLAIMER: Tutorial written based on [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector/releases/tag/v2.0.2 GUI version 2.0.2]
__TOC__

= Detector Operation =

== Finding the right threshold ==
There are several ways to find the right detector threshold. In general, one aims to minimize the amount of electronic noise while not sacrificing real detector counts.
* Method 0: The choice of threshold should always be guided by the expected integrated muon flux per m2 and per second in the detector. For our large detector (25cm x 12.5 cm), this is roughly 3.5Hz. For our small hexagonal detector, this is roughly 1Hz. For a more in-depth choice of threshold, follow the other methods.
* Method 1: Using an oscilloscope (details to be added)
* Method 2: Using the energy processor (details to be added)
* Method 3: Another way to accomplish this, and without having to use additional equipment, is a threshold scan using the GUI. Here, the software is automatically setting different threshold levels and measuring the number of counts measured per time interval. Thus, by creating a graph showing count rate versus threshold, one can make an informed decision on how to choose the right threshold level.
# Open GUI and navigate to the "Scans" page.
# Set "UBXRATE" as observable and "THR1" (if using channel one of the board) or "THR2" (if using channel two). Select meaningful values for the scan range: test by hand (using the Threshold slider) to find a high count rate (blue LED on HAT board permanently on) and where the counts practically disappear (blue LED permanently off). Those to values can be set as "Scan range from" and "To". To get good statistics, choose 0.0025 as step size and 20s as "Meas. time interval".
# Press "Start scan". The scan might take several minutes, depending on your effective scan range. The progress is displayed on the bottom of the page.
# When the scan is done, right-click on the y-axis of the plot and select "Log Y" to show the plot in log scale.
# Choosing the right threshold value. The result in your GUI should look similar to Screenshot 1 in the gallery below. A steep drop in count rate for very low thresholds turns into a less steep drop. At this point, the electronic background is effectively cut and only real detector signals are measured. To avoid measuring a great number of dark counts (signal-like events produced by the photosensors) one wants to set the threshold well above the point where the slope changes. In this example, we chose a value 20mV above that point. In screenshot 2 the data is fitted with an exponential decay function with three decay constants for reference. The data was taken with a large (25cm x 12.5 cm) detector.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Threshold Scan Log.PNG|Screenshot 1: GUI Scan page with scan settings
Threshold Scan Log fit.png|Screenshot 2: Fit of the plotted data. An exponential decay function with three decay constants was assumed.
</gallery>

Raspberry Pi Setup

2021-12-31T15:33:50Z

Hgz: /* Configuration */

(Requirements: Raspberry Pi Versions 0, 2, 3, 4 (with 40-pin GPIO connector) )

This article will introduce to you, how to set up a Raspberry Pi from scratch with all software needed to run the detector hardware.

DISCLAIMER: If not stated otherwise, this tutorial is developed on Raspian 10 Buster.

__TOC__
= Guided Setup =
This is the recommended way of setting up the muondetector software.

# Download the latest muondetector [https://archive.muonpi.org/image/latest/ image]. If you want to use the detector headless or without graphical user interface, select the -lite version, otherwise select the -gui version. If you prefer to build your own version of the image, check out the [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector-image repository].
# Install the image onto an SD-Card: [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/computers/getting-started.html#installing-images-on-linux Linux] [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/computers/getting-started.html#installing-images-on-mac-os MacOS] [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/computers/getting-started.html#installing-images-on-windows Windows]
# (Optional) Setup [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/computers/configuration.html#setting-up-a-headless-raspberry-pi headless] network. SSH is already enabled per default in the provided images.
# Boot your RaspberryPi
# Open a login console
## Per SSH, or
## Open a terminal on the RaspberryPi
# Follow the Prompts in the terminal
# Update your system
sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade
[[File:Screenshot 2021-07-29 22-32-37.png|frameless|center]]

= Manual Setup =
=== Basic ===
* Create a fresh install of RaspberryPi OS according to the [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/ tutorial]
* Update your system:
sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade
* Change the default password of the user <code>pi</code>:
passwd
* (Optional) For an headless install (without monitor and mouse/keyboard), we recommend following this [https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/headless.md guide].
=== Interfaces ===
sudo raspi-config
* '''Enable the serial interface''' (UART) and '''disable the login shell''' via the UART:
3 Interface Options -> P6 Serial Port -> No (login shell over serial) -> Yes (serial port)
* Enable I2C Interface:
3 Interface Options -> P5 I2C -> Yes (enable)
* (Optional) '''Enable SSH''':
3 Interface Options -> P2 SSH -> Yes (enable)

=== Network ===
By default, the RPi is configured to automatically obtain an IP address when a connection is available and DHCP in your local network is active (this should be the case for most local/home networks).
If you prefer a fixed IP address in a local network: edit the file /etc/dhcpcd.conf. Use the template and uncomment the "Example Static IP Configuration" section with your desired IP address.
If network access should be established via WiFi, either configure it via the network configuration wizard in the graphical desktop environment (usually network icon in the system bar), or manually following these steps (either method is fine):
* Make sure that the wpa_supplicant package is installed:
sudo apt install wpasupplicant
* edit the file /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf:
sudo nano /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
the configuration should look like this (non-relevant lines not shown):
update_config=1
country=DE
network={
ssid="<your network ssid>"
psk="<your wifi password>"
key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
}
Enter your WiFi's SSID and password in the indicated fields.
Finally, restart the system that the changes take effect.

=== MuonPi software installation ===
(Requirements: a MuonPi board plugged onto the GPIO connector of the RPi)
* First, update your system to make sure, certificates and dependencies are up to date. This might take a while depending on how regularly the system is being updated.
sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade

* Then, add the MuonPi apt repository to your system:
sudo sh -c "curl https://archive.muonpi.org/muondetector.public.key | gpg --dearmor > /etc/apt/trusted.gpg.d/muondetector.gpg"

sudo sh -c "echo deb <nowiki>https://archive.muonpi.org/raspbian buster main</nowiki> > /etc/apt/sources.list.d/muondetector.list"
* Update the repositories again:
sudo apt update
* Install the muondetector-daemon package and it's dependencies:
sudo apt install muondetector-daemon
* Optional: install the Graphical User Interface (GUI) program to monitor and control the MuonPi locally.
sudo apt install muondetector-gui
{{Note|Note that if you want to use the gui on the raspberrypi, it is recommended to use the Raspberrypi OS with Desktop preinstalled.|reminder}}

* The GUI can connect to the MuonPi over network as well, so it can be installed on other computers in the local network. Currently, binary packages for Raspbian, Ubuntu and Windows are available. The Linux-based versions can be installed from the package repositories (execute steps 1,2 and 4 from this list). The Windows program can be downloaded directly from https://archive.muonpi.org and installed by simply unpacking the zip-archive.

=== Login with your user credentials (only once) ===

Before taking the MuonPi detector into operation, you have to set your credentials for publishing data messages to the server via [http://mqtt.org/ MQTT] protocol on first start. This can be managed in two ways, one secure and one where your credentials appear as plain text in the config file:
==== The Recommended Method ====
In a bash shell on the MuonPi, run the command <code>muondetector-login</code>.

'''Note that for the software version 2.0.0 the command to run is <code>sudo runuser -u muonuser -- muondetector-login</code> instead.'''

When asked for sudo access, enter the password of your raspberry pi user.
When asked for your user name and password, enter the credentials supplied to you by a MounPi.org official. The credentials are stored (not in clear text) for all further telemetry connections.

==== Alternative Method ====
Uncomment the <code>mqtt_user</code> and <code>mqtt_password</code> options in <code>/etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf</code> and type your personal username and password into these fields between the quotation marks. Be aware, that these credentials are written in plain text into this file and can be retrieved by malware attacks. However, if you operate a station inside a home network and set up a strong ssh authentication (see above), you should be relatively safe.

=== Start the Daemon ===
The daemon should be enabled and started automatically after installation and on every reboot. However, when changing items in the config file, the changes have to be made effective by a daemon restart:
sudo systemctl restart muondetector-daemon.service

To see the current status of the daemon service use following command:
systemctl status muondetector-daemon.service

It can happen that the status shows 'failed' in red, usually a restart of the daemon service resolves this.

If the service should not enable itself by default the status shows a grey 'not loaded'. To enable the service use:
sudo systemctl enable muondetector-daemon.service

= Configuration =

Edit the configuration file /etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf: <code>nano /etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf</code>.
Change the settings according to your needs or leave them untouched, if unsure. The comments in the config file should guide you through any required modifications. One option, however, describes the placement of your detector. If you like, choose a stationID descriptor, eg.:
(file: <code>/etc/muondetector/muondetector.conf</code>)
<nowiki>#</nowiki> A unique identifier of the user's station
<nowiki>#</nowiki> leave on default when the user operates a single station
<nowiki>#</nowiki> all detectors of the user are distinguishable on the basis of this id
stationID = "HomeOffice"

(anything which best describes the location of your detector like e.g. "GarageSW", "Bldg16Lab105", "AtticNE"). If you operate only one stationary detector, it may as well be left on the default ID which is "0" (zero).

'''Important''': When operating multiple detectors (under the same MQTT user account, see above) the stationID descriptor '''must''' be unique for each detector.

Assembly Guide

2021-06-09T08:15:29Z

Hgz:

This is a guide on how to populate our MuonPi-PCB based on the soldering kit. You can obtain a kit, a fully assembled PCB (limited availability) or only the unmounted PCB by contacting us [http://www.muonpi.org/contact.html here].

All components in this kit (except for the pin headers) are surface-mount devices (SMD).
Most of these parts are only a few millimeters in size and are prone jump very far, should you slip with the tweezers.
Soldering these requires steady hands and a bit of technique, but this guide aims to help you with that.

== The Kit ==
The Kit contains all the parts you need to set up your very own Raspberry Pi based particle detector.

Contents of the Kit are:
* The plastic scintillator (generously provided by [https://eljentechnology.com/ Eljen Technology])
* The bare printed circuit board ([[Muonpi board]])
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satellite_navigation GNSS] antenna
* Components to mount on the PCB (Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, ICs, etc.)
* Bill of materials (BOM). There's also an [https://muonpi.org/bom/ibom.html interactive online version] which simplifies the search for components on the board and has a place-and-tick checkmark for the already mounted components to maintain the overview during soldering.

The individual components of the kit are fixed to a name tag using tape, as can be seen in the picture.
[[File:Parts-packaging.jpg|thumb|Example of how parts in the detector PCB kit are packaged]]
Because of the size and difficulty labeling the parts, they are packaged using paper labels and clear Scotch tape.
Getting the parts out of their packaging has to be done quite carefully, as they are easy get lost. Also, remove the Scotch tape from the ICs very slowly to prevent sudden static discharge which would destroy the chips.

== Tools ==
The bare essential tools are:
* soldering iron
* solder
* (metal) tweezers
* solder fume extractor
additional:
* flux
* solder wick
* vise or helping hands
* scalpel/scissors
* magnifying glass

Additionally, we recommend to choose a brightl workplace, as dim lights and small components can lead to eye strain and head aches.

Generally,the smaller the tip of your soldering iron is, the better, for small component soldering at least.
Of course if you have other solder tips, like ones with a solder depot, you can use those too. 
In any case whatever tools you need to get the job done, are the correct tools to use.

== Documentation ==
The schematic, layout and BOM of the current hardware version can be found on the [https://easyeda.com/MuonPi/cosmic_shower_detector_v1-52b8a2536bb6468e9f48412a774951d0_copy_copy easyEDA project page].
While soldering, finding the right pad, where a specific components has to go, can be quite difficult.
The labels on the PCB are small and space for them is very limited which makes some of them hard to read and find.
To help you find the correct solder pads, we recommend to have a computer nearby where you can open the [https://easyeda.com/editor#id=ad78628187d94b9cb54d8735233128d7 schematics] and use the search function.
Alternatively you can print out the layout that is attached on the easyEDA project page.

=== Mounting Options ===
The BOM specifies multiple mounting options, such as: "Full", "Single Channel", "External Bias Supply", "Fixed Input Polarity".

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Mounting Option !! Description !! Do Not Mount !! Mount !! Modify !! Remarks
|-
| Full || dual channel, dual polarity, on-board bias supply || R515, L503, R115/R215, LED406, P400 || || || Default mounting option
|-
| Single Channel || Channel 1 only, default input configuration || D502, L200, R200, R202, R203, R204, R205, R206, R212, R215, R301, R302, R305, R309, R312, R404, R513, C200, C201, C202, C203, C204, C205, C210, C211, C301, C302, C305, U200, U202, U504, LED404, X2 || || || single channel
|-
| External Bias Supply || use plug-on DC/DC converter for bias voltage generation instead of on-board regulator || U502, L500, D500, C505, R501, R500, R502 || R515 or L503 || || bias voltage supplied by plug-on DC/DC converter module for e.g. supply of other SiPM types (e.g. Hamamatsu)
|}
The default configuration of the kit contains only one scintillator, therefore only one channel of the detector electronics will be used at a time.
In that case, the "Single Channel" mounting option would be sufficient.
However the number of components in the kit follows the "Full" configuration, and mounting all components is still recommended.
Just mounting all the parts that are included in the kit will lead to a working PCB with both channels working.
Please [https://muonpi.org/contact.html contact us], if you are interested in a two scintillator setup.

== Assembly ==
First things first, you should setup your workspace with all parts layed out, along with the BOM and all the tools you might need.
Personally, I like to sort the parts into categories: Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, ICs and others.
This helps to save time and gives a quick overview of your soldering progress.
In principle the choice which components to mount first comes down to personal preference.
A helpful guideline is to mount parts depending on their height.
Lower, smaller parts should be mounted first, as to not interfere too much in the later stages of assembly.
This is why the GPIO headers should be among the last components to be mounted.

Once you are set up, you can turn on your soldering iron and fume extractor and start soldering.

=== Tips on SMD soldering ===
SMD components are small and difficult to solder.
The easiest components to solder are the resistors and capacitors.
Start with these to get comfortable with SMD soldering first, then proceed to the more difficult ICs. 
A quick guide to SMD soldering can be found at [https://www.sparkfun.com/marcomm/SFE03-0010-KitCard-SolderingSMD-ReaderSpreads.pdf sparkfun.com].

Be careful with the tip of the iron and the PCB. Too much heat and scraping of the pads can remove the top layer from the PCB or even rip the pad off the PCB.
The later, depending on the pad this happens to, is very likely to completely brick the board and rendering it unusable.

=== Soldering Workflow ===
[[File:Closeup of one soldered pad and a resistor.jpg|thumb|left|Closeup of a pad with solder and a resistor]]
Take your BOM and choose one of the resistor/capacitor values to begin with and identify the pad label, where the part is supposed to be placed.
Now take your soldering iron and heat one side of the pad. After a couple of seconds of heating, add some solder to the pad.
Take out one of the components out of it's packaging and grab onto it with the tweezers as indicated in the picture on the right.
Heat the solder blob and slide the component into the molten solder from the side.
This ensures covering of the components contacts.
Placing the component into the blob from above can lead to solder bridges underneath the component, which will render the component useless.

Once one side of the component is fixed, it's good practice to lightly press down on the component and remelt the solder.
Doing this will help to mount the component flush to the board.
Although not always necessary, doing this will help to avoid solder bridges, especially between the legs of ICs.
[[File:Flush component.jpg|x300px|thumb|right|Component lifted on one side (top); pressed down and after remelting the solder (bottom)]]

It is a good idea to cross out the components on the BOM once they are soldered.
Should in the end a label on the BOM be left unmarked you can check to not miss any components.

When you are finished soldering all parts of one kind, pause and check you haven't missed any.
Only then move on to the next group of parts.

=== Integrated Circuits (ICs) ===
Once all passive Components are placed and double checked, we can move on to the integrated circuits.
Soldering these is considerably more difficult, especially the ADC and DAC (U401 & U402 in v3.x) have a very small pad pitch.
Solder bridges are almost unavoidable and need to be dealt with.

First, solder is added to one pad on a corner of the IC footprint.
Then, just like the passive components, the IC is moved into the molten solder.
It is very important to align all the legs of the IC on their respective pads.
Proceed to fix one of the other legs, preferably a leg on the diagonally opposite side.
The remaining unsoldered legs can now be soldered to the board.

If solder bridges are created, they need to be removed.
One possible method to remove solder bridges is the usage of flux.
Flux is a mixture of multiple compounds that remove and prevent build up of oxides on the solder blob.
Additionally it increases the surface tension of the molten solder and therefor promotes splitting of solder blobs.
So just using a good amount of flux can fix solder bridges.

However if there is too much solder on the pads, bridges cannot be fixed just using flux. In that case we need to remove some solder.
Solder wicks are very useful for this task as its tight copper webbing wicks up any excess solder.
Place the wick on the solder blob and using the hot soldering iron, press the wick on the solder from above.
After a while, once the wick is hot enough, the solder will melt and be picked up by the wick.
Remove the wick and soldering iron simultaneously, otherwise the wick will be soldered to the pad instead, and pulling on the wick in that case can rip the pad off of the PCB.

In the timelapse you might be able to catch, how I soldered the ADC and DAC (U401 & U402 in v3.x).
Since the pitch is very small and solder bridges are very likely, I didn't even bother trying to avoid them.
After fixing the IC in place on one leg, I added a lot of solder to all pins and pads in one big blob.
With the addition of flux, most of the solder was removed using the solder wick, in the hopes that some solder would remain under the legs.
On first sight it seemed to work, but testing of the board revealed that something did not work.
Knowing this technique is not 100% reliable, a quick reheat with careful addition of small amounts of solder fixed the issue and the board was fully operational.

{{#evt:service=youtube|id=E3kZMtjD76c|alignment=right|container=frame|description=Timelapse of IC soldering ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3kZMtjD76c link to youtube])|dimensions=480}}

=== Hints and Tricks ===
There are some known points prone to failure during mounting which require increased attention. Following is a (growing) list of those potential pitfalls and some useful hints arising from our mounting experience as well as from user feedback:
* The marking for pin 1 of U102/U202 (SN74LVC1G3157) is very difficult to recognize. When you place the IC in such a way that you are able to read the printed package marking (e.g. through a magnifying glass or microscope) in a normal orientation, i.e. from left to right, then pin 1 should be at the lower left corner.
* When soldering the edge-mount SMA connector, make sure to supply enough heat (or power) to the soldering iron tip. On the other hand, do not stay with the tip too long at the connector since an excess of heat may damage the connectors dielectric.
* Be careful when soldering the u.Fl (miniature coax) connectors. Do not let the solder touch the connector rim! Apply plenty of solder to the Gnd pins to bridge the gap to the lateral pads.
* The current limiting resistors for the LEDs in the default BOM are chosen such that the LEDs are rather bright. In order to reduce the brightness, see the recommendations from [https://forum.muonpi.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=22 this forum post]. With the default resistors in place the LEDs are intensively illuminating your room at night :)

== Testing the board ==
'''How-To:'''
# Assemble the MuonPi-PCB as described in this guide
# [[Raspberry_Pi_Setup#MuonPi_Setup|Software Setup]]
# [[Hardware_Setup|Hardware Setup]]
To test your fully assembled board, follow the Software- and Hardware-Setup How-To.
Once everything is installed and connected your MuonPi is ready to boot.
Since the Version 2.0 of the muondetector-deamon will set default values for the thresholds and bias-voltage.
With these defaults the blue Ch1-LED should start flashing irregularly.
You are now seeing particles pass through your scintillator!

Assembly Guide

2021-06-09T07:41:41Z

Hgz: /* Hints and Tricks */

This is a guide on how to populate our MuonPi-PCB, using the construction kit. You can get a kit or a fully assembled PCB by contacting us [http://www.muonpi.org/contact.html here].

All components in this kit (except for the pin headers) are surface-mount devices (SMD).
Most of these parts are only a few millimeters in size and are prone jump very far, should you slip with the tweezers.
Soldering these requires steady hands and a bit of technique, but this guide aims to help you with that.

== The Kit ==
The Kit contains all the parts you need to set up your very own Raspberry Pi based particle detector.

Contents of the Kit are:
* The plastic scintillator (generously provided by [https://eljentechnology.com/ Eljen Technology])
* The bare printed circuit board ([[Muonpi board]])
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satellite_navigation GNSS] antenna
* Components to mount on the PCB (Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, ICs, etc.)
* Bill of materials (BOM). There's also an [https://muonpi.org/bom/ibom.html interactive online version] which simplifies the search for components on the board and has a place-and-tick checkmark for the already mounted components to maintain the overview during soldering.

The individual components of the kit are fixed to a name tag using tape, as can be seen in the picture.
[[File:Parts-packaging.jpg|thumb|Example of how parts in the detector PCB kit are packaged]]
Because of the size and difficulty labeling the parts, they are packaged using paper labels and clear Scotch tape.
Getting the parts out of their packaging has to be done quite carefully, as they are easy get lost. Also, remove the Scotch tape from the ICs very slowly to prevent sudden static discharge which would destroy the chips.

== Tools ==
The bare essential tools are:
* soldering iron
* solder
* (metal) tweezers
* solder fume extractor
additional:
* flux
* solder wick
* vise or helping hands
* scalpel/scissors
* magnifying glass

Additionally, we recommend to choose a brightl workplace, as dim lights and small components can lead to eye strain and head aches.

Generally,the smaller the tip of your soldering iron is, the better, for small component soldering at least.
Of course if you have other solder tips, like ones with a solder depot, you can use those too. 
In any case whatever tools you need to get the job done, are the correct tools to use.

== Documentation ==
The schematic, layout and BOM of the current hardware version can be found on the [https://easyeda.com/MuonPi/cosmic_shower_detector_v1-52b8a2536bb6468e9f48412a774951d0_copy_copy easyEDA project page].
While soldering, finding the right pad, where a specific components has to go, can be quite difficult.
The labels on the PCB are small and space for them is very limited which makes some of them hard to read and find.
To help you find the correct solder pads, we recommend to have a computer nearby where you can open the [https://easyeda.com/editor#id=ad78628187d94b9cb54d8735233128d7 schematics] and use the search function.
Alternatively you can print out the layout that is attached on the easyEDA project page.

=== Mounting Options ===
The BOM specifies multiple mounting options, such as: "Full", "Single Channel", "External Bias Supply", "Fixed Input Polarity".

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Mounting Option !! Description !! Do Not Mount !! Mount !! Modify !! Remarks
|-
| Full || dual channel, dual polarity, on-board bias supply || R515, L503, R115/R215, LED406, P400 || || || Default mounting option
|-
| Single Channel || Channel 1 only, default input configuration || D502, L200, R200, R202, R203, R204, R205, R206, R212, R215, R301, R302, R305, R309, R312, R404, R513, C200, C201, C202, C203, C204, C205, C210, C211, C301, C302, C305, U200, U202, U504, LED404, X2 || || || single channel
|-
| External Bias Supply || use plug-on DC/DC converter for bias voltage generation instead of on-board regulator || U502, L500, D500, C505, R501, R500, R502 || R515 or L503 || || bias voltage supplied by plug-on DC/DC converter module for e.g. supply of other SiPM types (e.g. Hamamatsu)
|}
The default configuration of the kit contains only one scintillator, therefore only one channel of the detector electronics will be used at a time.
In that case, the "Single Channel" mounting option would be sufficient.
However the number of components in the kit follows the "Full" configuration, and mounting all components is still recommended.
Just mounting all the parts that are included in the kit will lead to a working PCB with both channels working.
Please [https://muonpi.org/contact.html contact us], if you are interested in a two scintillator setup.

== Assembly ==
First things first, you should setup your workspace with all parts layed out, along with the BOM and all the tools you might need.
Personally, I like to sort the parts into categories: Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, ICs and others.
This helps to save time and gives a quick overview of your soldering progress.
In principle the choice which components to mount first comes down to personal preference.
A helpful guideline is to mount parts depending on their height.
Lower, smaller parts should be mounted first, as to not interfere too much in the later stages of assembly.
This is why the GPIO headers should be among the last components to be mounted.

Once you are set up, you can turn on your soldering iron and fume extractor and start soldering.

=== Tips on SMD soldering ===
SMD components are small and difficult to solder.
The easiest components to solder are the resistors and capacitors.
Start with these to get comfortable with SMD soldering first, then proceed to the more difficult ICs. 
A quick guide to SMD soldering can be found at [https://www.sparkfun.com/marcomm/SFE03-0010-KitCard-SolderingSMD-ReaderSpreads.pdf sparkfun.com].

Be careful with the tip of the iron and the PCB. Too much heat and scraping of the pads can remove the top layer from the PCB or even rip the pad off the PCB.
The later, depending on the pad this happens to, is very likely to completely brick the board and rendering it unusable.

=== Soldering Workflow ===
[[File:Closeup of one soldered pad and a resistor.jpg|thumb|left|Closeup of a pad with solder and a resistor]]
Take your BOM and choose one of the resistor/capacitor values to begin with and identify the pad label, where the part is supposed to be placed.
Now take your soldering iron and heat one side of the pad. After a couple of seconds of heating, add some solder to the pad.
Take out one of the components out of it's packaging and grab onto it with the tweezers as indicated in the picture on the right.
Heat the solder blob and slide the component into the molten solder from the side.
This ensures covering of the components contacts.
Placing the component into the blob from above can lead to solder bridges underneath the component, which will render the component useless.

Once one side of the component is fixed, it's good practice to lightly press down on the component and remelt the solder.
Doing this will help to mount the component flush to the board.
Although not always necessary, doing this will help to avoid solder bridges, especially between the legs of ICs.
[[File:Flush component.jpg|x300px|thumb|right|Component lifted on one side (top); pressed down and after remelting the solder (bottom)]]

It is a good idea to cross out the components on the BOM once they are soldered.
Should in the end a label on the BOM be left unmarked you can check to not miss any components.

When you are finished soldering all parts of one kind, pause and check you haven't missed any.
Only then move on to the next group of parts.

=== Integrated Circuits (ICs) ===
Once all passive Components are placed and double checked, we can move on to the integrated circuits.
Soldering these is considerably more difficult, especially the ADC and DAC (U401 & U402 in v3.x) have a very small pad pitch.
Solder bridges are almost unavoidable and need to be dealt with.

First, solder is added to one pad on a corner of the IC footprint.
Then, just like the passive components, the IC is moved into the molten solder.
It is very important to align all the legs of the IC on their respective pads.
Proceed to fix one of the other legs, preferably a leg on the diagonally opposite side.
The remaining unsoldered legs can now be soldered to the board.

If solder bridges are created, they need to be removed.
One possible method to remove solder bridges is the usage of flux.
Flux is a mixture of multiple compounds that remove and prevent build up of oxides on the solder blob.
Additionally it increases the surface tension of the molten solder and therefor promotes splitting of solder blobs.
So just using a good amount of flux can fix solder bridges.

However if there is too much solder on the pads, bridges cannot be fixed just using flux. In that case we need to remove some solder.
Solder wicks are very useful for this task as its tight copper webbing wicks up any excess solder.
Place the wick on the solder blob and using the hot soldering iron, press the wick on the solder from above.
After a while, once the wick is hot enough, the solder will melt and be picked up by the wick.
Remove the wick and soldering iron simultaneously, otherwise the wick will be soldered to the pad instead, and pulling on the wick in that case can rip the pad off of the PCB.

In the timelapse you might be able to catch, how I soldered the ADC and DAC (U401 & U402 in v3.x).
Since the pitch is very small and solder bridges are very likely, I didn't even bother trying to avoid them.
After fixing the IC in place on one leg, I added a lot of solder to all pins and pads in one big blob.
With the addition of flux, most of the solder was removed using the solder wick, in the hopes that some solder would remain under the legs.
On first sight it seemed to work, but testing of the board revealed that something did not work.
Knowing this technique is not 100% reliable, a quick reheat with careful addition of small amounts of solder fixed the issue and the board was fully operational.

{{#evt:service=youtube|id=E3kZMtjD76c|alignment=right|container=frame|description=Timelapse of IC soldering ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3kZMtjD76c link to youtube])|dimensions=480}}

=== Hints and Tricks ===
There are some known points prone to failure during mounting which require increased attention. Following is a (growing) list of those potential pitfalls and some useful hints arising from our mounting experience as well as from user feedback:
* The marking for pin 1 of U102/U202 (SN74LVC1G3157) is very difficult to recognize. When you place the IC in such a way that you are able to read the printed package marking (e.g. through a magnifying glass or microscope) in a normal orientation, i.e. from left to right, then pin 1 should be at the lower left corner.
* When soldering the edge-mount SMA connector, make sure to supply enough heat (or power) to the soldering iron tip. On the other hand, do not stay with the tip too long at the connector since an excess of heat may damage the connectors dielectric.
* Be careful when soldering the u.Fl (miniature coax) connectors. Do not let the solder touch the connector rim! Apply plenty of solder to the Gnd pins to bridge the gap to the lateral pads.
* The current limiting resistors for the LEDs in the default BOM are chosen such that the LEDs are rather bright. In order to reduce the brightness, see the recommendations from [https://forum.muonpi.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=22 this forum post]. With the default resistors in place the LEDs are intensively illuminating your room at night :)

== Testing the board ==
'''How-To:'''
# Assemble the MuonPi-PCB as described in this guide
# [[Raspberry_Pi_Setup#MuonPi_Setup|Software Setup]]
# [[Hardware_Setup|Hardware Setup]]
To test your fully assembled board, follow the Software- and Hardware-Setup How-To.
Once everything is installed and connected your MuonPi is ready to boot.
Since the Version 2.0 of the muondetector-deamon will set default values for the thresholds and bias-voltage.
With these defaults the blue Ch1-LED should start flashing irregularly.
You are now seeing particles pass through your scintillator!

Assembly Guide

2021-05-22T11:58:50Z

Hgz: /* The Kit */

This is a guide on how to populate our MuonPi-PCB, using the construction kit. You can get a kit or a fully assembled PCB by contacting us [http://www.muonpi.org/contact.html here].

All components in this kit (except for the pin headers) are surface-mount devices (SMD).
Most of these parts are only a few millimeters in size and are prone jump very far, should you slip with the tweezers.
Soldering these requires steady hands and a bit of technique, but this guide aims to help you with that.

== The Kit ==
The Kit contains all the parts you need to set up your very own Raspberry Pi based particle detector.

Contents of the Kit are:
* The plastic scintillator (generously provided by [https://eljentechnology.com/ Eljen Technology])
* The bare printed circuit board ([[Muonpi board]])
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satellite_navigation GNSS] antenna
* Components to mount on the PCB (Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, ICs, etc.)
* Bill of materials (BOM). There's also an [https://muonpi.org/bom/ibom.html interactive online version] which simplifies the search for components on the board and has a place-and-tick checkmark for the already mounted components to maintain the overview during soldering.

The individual components of the kit are fixed to a name tag using tape, as can be seen in the picture.
[[File:Parts-packaging.jpg|thumb|Example of how parts in the detector PCB kit are packaged]]
Because of the size and difficulty labeling the parts, they are packaged using paper labels and clear Scotch tape.
Getting the parts out of their packaging has to be done quite carefully, as they are easy get lost. Also, remove the Scotch tape from the ICs very slowly to prevent sudden static discharge which would destroy the chips.

== Tools ==
The bare essential tools are:
* soldering iron
* solder
* (metal) tweezers
* solder fume extractor
additional:
* flux
* solder wick
* vise or helping hands
* scalpel/scissors
* magnifying glass

Additionally, we recommend to choose a brightl workplace, as dim lights and small components can lead to eye strain and head aches.

Generally,the smaller the tip of your soldering iron is, the better, for small component soldering at least.
Of course if you have other solder tips, like ones with a solder depot, you can use those too. 
In any case whatever tools you need to get the job done, are the correct tools to use.

== Documentation ==
The schematic, layout and BOM of the current hardware version can be found on the [https://easyeda.com/MuonPi/cosmic_shower_detector_v1-52b8a2536bb6468e9f48412a774951d0_copy_copy easyEDA project page].
While soldering, finding the right pad, where a specific components has to go, can be quite difficult.
The labels on the PCB are small and space for them is very limited which makes some of them hard to read and find.
To help you find the correct solder pads, we recommend to have a computer nearby where you can open the [https://easyeda.com/editor#id=ad78628187d94b9cb54d8735233128d7 schematics] and use the search function.
Alternatively you can print out the layout that is attached on the easyEDA project page.

=== Mounting Options ===
The BOM specifies multiple mounting options, such as: "Full", "Single Channel", "External Bias Supply", "Fixed Input Polarity".

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Mounting Option !! Description !! Do Not Mount !! Mount !! Modify !! Remarks
|-
| Full || dual channel, dual polarity, on-board bias supply || R515, L503, R115/R215, LED406, P400 || || || Default mounting option
|-
| Single Channel || Channel 1 only, default input configuration || D502, L200, R200, R202, R203, R204, R205, R206, R212, R215, R301, R302, R305, R309, R312, R404, R513, C200, C201, C202, C203, C204, C205, C210, C211, C301, C302, C305, U200, U202, U504, LED404, X2 || || || single channel
|-
| External Bias Supply || use plug-on DC/DC converter for bias voltage generation instead of on-board regulator || U502, L500, D500, C505, R501, R500, R502 || R515 or L503 || || bias voltage supplied by plug-on DC/DC converter module for e.g. supply of other SiPM types (e.g. Hamamatsu)
|}
The default configuration of the kit contains only one scintillator, therefore only one channel of the detector electronics will be used at a time.
In that case, the "Single Channel" mounting option would be sufficient.
However the number of components in the kit follows the "Full" configuration, and mounting all components is still recommended.
Just mounting all the parts that are included in the kit will lead to a working PCB with both channels working.
Please [https://muonpi.org/contact.html contact us], if you are interested in a two scintillator setup.

== Assembly ==
First things first, you should setup your workspace with all parts layed out, along with the BOM and all the tools you might need.
Personally, I like to sort the parts into categories: Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, ICs and others.
This helps to save time and gives a quick overview of your soldering progress.
In principle the choice which components to mount first comes down to personal preference.
A helpful guideline is to mount parts depending on their height.
Lower, smaller parts should be mounted first, as to not interfere too much in the later stages of assembly.
This is why the GPIO headers should be among the last components to be mounted.

Once you are set up, you can turn on your soldering iron and fume extractor and start soldering.

=== Tips on SMD soldering ===
SMD components are small and difficult to solder.
The easiest components to solder are the resistors and capacitors.
Start with these to get comfortable with SMD soldering first, then proceed to the more difficult ICs. 
A quick guide to SMD soldering can be found at [https://www.sparkfun.com/marcomm/SFE03-0010-KitCard-SolderingSMD-ReaderSpreads.pdf sparkfun.com].

Be careful with the tip of the iron and the PCB. Too much heat and scraping of the pads can remove the top layer from the PCB or even rip the pad off the PCB.
The later, depending on the pad this happens to, is very likely to completely brick the board and rendering it unusable.

=== Soldering Workflow ===
[[File:Closeup of one soldered pad and a resistor.jpg|thumb|left|Closeup of a pad with solder and a resistor]]
Take your BOM and choose one of the resistor/capacitor values to begin with and identify the pad label, where the part is supposed to be placed.
Now take your soldering iron and heat one side of the pad. After a couple of seconds of heating, add some solder to the pad.
Take out one of the components out of it's packaging and grab onto it with the tweezers as indicated in the picture on the right.
Heat the solder blob and slide the component into the molten solder from the side.
This ensures covering of the components contacts.
Placing the component into the blob from above can lead to solder bridges underneath the component, which will render the component useless.

Once one side of the component is fixed, it's good practice to lightly press down on the component and remelt the solder.
Doing this will help to mount the component flush to the board.
Although not always necessary, doing this will help to avoid solder bridges, especially between the legs of ICs.
[[File:Flush component.jpg|x300px|thumb|right|Component lifted on one side (top); pressed down and after remelting the solder (bottom)]]

It is a good idea to cross out the components on the BOM once they are soldered.
Should in the end a label on the BOM be left unmarked you can check to not miss any components.

When you are finished soldering all parts of one kind, pause and check you haven't missed any.
Only then move on to the next group of parts.

=== Integrated Circuits (ICs) ===
Once all passive Components are placed and double checked, we can move on to the integrated circuits.
Soldering these is considerably more difficult, especially the ADC and DAC (U401 & U402 in v3.x) have a very small pad pitch.
Solder bridges are almost unavoidable and need to be dealt with.

First, solder is added to one pad on a corner of the IC footprint.
Then, just like the passive components, the IC is moved into the molten solder.
It is very important to align all the legs of the IC on their respective pads.
Proceed to fix one of the other legs, preferably a leg on the diagonally opposite side.
The remaining unsoldered legs can now be soldered to the board.

If solder bridges are created, they need to be removed.
One possible method to remove solder bridges is the usage of flux.
Flux is a mixture of multiple compounds that remove and prevent build up of oxides on the solder blob.
Additionally it increases the surface tension of the molten solder and therefor promotes splitting of solder blobs.
So just using a good amount of flux can fix solder bridges.

However if there is too much solder on the pads, bridges cannot be fixed just using flux. In that case we need to remove some solder.
Solder wicks are very useful for this task as its tight copper webbing wicks up any excess solder.
Place the wick on the solder blob and using the hot soldering iron, press the wick on the solder from above.
After a while, once the wick is hot enough, the solder will melt and be picked up by the wick.
Remove the wick and soldering iron simultaneously, otherwise the wick will be soldered to the pad instead, and pulling on the wick in that case can rip the pad off of the PCB.

In the timelapse you might be able to catch, how I soldered the ADC and DAC (U401 & U402 in v3.x).
Since the pitch is very small and solder bridges are very likely, I didn't even bother trying to avoid them.
After fixing the IC in place on one leg, I added a lot of solder to all pins and pads in one big blob.
With the addition of flux, most of the solder was removed using the solder wick, in the hopes that some solder would remain under the legs.
On first sight it seemed to work, but testing of the board revealed that something did not work.
Knowing this technique is not 100% reliable, a quick reheat with careful addition of small amounts of solder fixed the issue and the board was fully operational.

{{#evt:service=youtube|id=E3kZMtjD76c|alignment=right|container=frame|description=Timelapse of IC soldering ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3kZMtjD76c link to youtube])|dimensions=480}}

=== Hints and Tricks ===
There are some known points prone to failure during mounting which require increased attention. Following is a (growing) list of those potential pitfalls and some useful hints arising from our mounting experience as well as from user feedback:
* The marking for pin 1 of U102/U202 (SN74LVC1G3157) is very difficult to recognize. When you place the IC in such a way that you are able to read the printed package marking (e.g. through a magnifying glass or microscope) in a normal orientation, i.e. from left to right, then pin 1 should be at the lower left corner.
* When soldering the edge-mount SMA connector, make sure to supply enough heat (or power) to the soldering iron tip. On the other hand, do not stay with the tip too long at the connector since an excess of heat may damage the connectors dielectric.
* Be careful when soldering the u.Fl (miniature coax) connectors. Do not let the solder touch the connector rim! Apply plenty of solder to the Gnd pins to bridge the gap to the lateral pads.

== Testing the board ==
'''How-To:'''
# Assemble the MuonPi-PCB as described in this guide
# [[Raspberry_Pi_Setup#MuonPi_Setup|Software Setup]]
# [[Hardware_Setup|Hardware Setup]]
To test your fully assembled board, follow the Software- and Hardware-Setup How-To.
Once everything is installed and connected your MuonPi is ready to boot.
Since the Version 2.0 of the muondetector-deamon will set default values for the thresholds and bias-voltage.
With these defaults the blue Ch1-LED should start flashing irregularly.
You are now seeing particles pass through your scintillator!

Assembly Guide

2021-05-22T11:57:03Z

Hgz: /* The Kit */

This is a guide on how to populate our MuonPi-PCB, using the construction kit. You can get a kit or a fully assembled PCB by contacting us [http://www.muonpi.org/contact.html here].

All components in this kit (except for the pin headers) are surface-mount devices (SMD).
Most of these parts are only a few millimeters in size and are prone jump very far, should you slip with the tweezers.
Soldering these requires steady hands and a bit of technique, but this guide aims to help you with that.

== The Kit ==
The Kit contains all the parts you need to set up your very own particle detector using your Raspberry Pi.

Contents of the Kit are:
* The plastic scintillator (generously provided by [https://eljentechnology.com/ Eljen Technology])
* The bare printed circuit board ([[Muonpi board]])
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satellite_navigation GNSS] antenna
* Components to mount on the PCB (Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, ICs, etc.)
* Bill of materials (BOM). There's also an [https://muonpi.org/bom/ibom.html interactive online version] which simplifies the search for components on the board and has a place-and-tick checkmark for the already mounted components to maintain the overview during soldering.

The individual components of the kit are glued to a nametag using tape, as can be seen in the picture.
[[File:Parts-packaging.jpg|thumb|Example of how parts in the detector PCB kit are packaged]]
Because of the size and difficulty labeling the parts, they are packaged using paper labels and clear tape.
Getting the parts out of their packaging has to be done quite carefully, as they are easy get lost. Also, remove the Scotch tape from the ICs very slowly to prevent sudden static discharge which would destroy the chips.

== Tools ==
The bare essential tools are:
* soldering iron
* solder
* (metal) tweezers
* solder fume extractor
additional:
* flux
* solder wick
* vise or helping hands
* scalpel/scissors
* magnifying glass

Additionally, we recommend to choose a brightl workplace, as dim lights and small components can lead to eye strain and head aches.

Generally,the smaller the tip of your soldering iron is, the better, for small component soldering at least.
Of course if you have other solder tips, like ones with a solder depot, you can use those too. 
In any case whatever tools you need to get the job done, are the correct tools to use.

== Documentation ==
The schematic, layout and BOM of the current hardware version can be found on the [https://easyeda.com/MuonPi/cosmic_shower_detector_v1-52b8a2536bb6468e9f48412a774951d0_copy_copy easyEDA project page].
While soldering, finding the right pad, where a specific components has to go, can be quite difficult.
The labels on the PCB are small and space for them is very limited which makes some of them hard to read and find.
To help you find the correct solder pads, we recommend to have a computer nearby where you can open the [https://easyeda.com/editor#id=ad78628187d94b9cb54d8735233128d7 schematics] and use the search function.
Alternatively you can print out the layout that is attached on the easyEDA project page.

=== Mounting Options ===
The BOM specifies multiple mounting options, such as: "Full", "Single Channel", "External Bias Supply", "Fixed Input Polarity".

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Mounting Option !! Description !! Do Not Mount !! Mount !! Modify !! Remarks
|-
| Full || dual channel, dual polarity, on-board bias supply || R515, L503, R115/R215, LED406, P400 || || || Default mounting option
|-
| Single Channel || Channel 1 only, default input configuration || D502, L200, R200, R202, R203, R204, R205, R206, R212, R215, R301, R302, R305, R309, R312, R404, R513, C200, C201, C202, C203, C204, C205, C210, C211, C301, C302, C305, U200, U202, U504, LED404, X2 || || || single channel
|-
| External Bias Supply || use plug-on DC/DC converter for bias voltage generation instead of on-board regulator || U502, L500, D500, C505, R501, R500, R502 || R515 or L503 || || bias voltage supplied by plug-on DC/DC converter module for e.g. supply of other SiPM types (e.g. Hamamatsu)
|}
The default configuration of the kit contains only one scintillator, therefore only one channel of the detector electronics will be used at a time.
In that case, the "Single Channel" mounting option would be sufficient.
However the number of components in the kit follows the "Full" configuration, and mounting all components is still recommended.
Just mounting all the parts that are included in the kit will lead to a working PCB with both channels working.
Please [https://muonpi.org/contact.html contact us], if you are interested in a two scintillator setup.

== Assembly ==
First things first, you should setup your workspace with all parts layed out, along with the BOM and all the tools you might need.
Personally, I like to sort the parts into categories: Resistors, Capacitors, Inductors, ICs and others.
This helps to save time and gives a quick overview of your soldering progress.
In principle the choice which components to mount first comes down to personal preference.
A helpful guideline is to mount parts depending on their height.
Lower, smaller parts should be mounted first, as to not interfere too much in the later stages of assembly.
This is why the GPIO headers should be among the last components to be mounted.

Once you are set up, you can turn on your soldering iron and fume extractor and start soldering.

=== Tips on SMD soldering ===
SMD components are small and difficult to solder.
The easiest components to solder are the resistors and capacitors.
Start with these to get comfortable with SMD soldering first, then proceed to the more difficult ICs. 
A quick guide to SMD soldering can be found at [https://www.sparkfun.com/marcomm/SFE03-0010-KitCard-SolderingSMD-ReaderSpreads.pdf sparkfun.com].

Be careful with the tip of the iron and the PCB. Too much heat and scraping of the pads can remove the top layer from the PCB or even rip the pad off the PCB.
The later, depending on the pad this happens to, is very likely to completely brick the board and rendering it unusable.

=== Soldering Workflow ===
[[File:Closeup of one soldered pad and a resistor.jpg|thumb|left|Closeup of a pad with solder and a resistor]]
Take your BOM and choose one of the resistor/capacitor values to begin with and identify the pad label, where the part is supposed to be placed.
Now take your soldering iron and heat one side of the pad. After a couple of seconds of heating, add some solder to the pad.
Take out one of the components out of it's packaging and grab onto it with the tweezers as indicated in the picture on the right.
Heat the solder blob and slide the component into the molten solder from the side.
This ensures covering of the components contacts.
Placing the component into the blob from above can lead to solder bridges underneath the component, which will render the component useless.

Once one side of the component is fixed, it's good practice to lightly press down on the component and remelt the solder.
Doing this will help to mount the component flush to the board.
Although not always necessary, doing this will help to avoid solder bridges, especially between the legs of ICs.
[[File:Flush component.jpg|x300px|thumb|right|Component lifted on one side (top); pressed down and after remelting the solder (bottom)]]

It is a good idea to cross out the components on the BOM once they are soldered.
Should in the end a label on the BOM be left unmarked you can check to not miss any components.

When you are finished soldering all parts of one kind, pause and check you haven't missed any.
Only then move on to the next group of parts.

=== Integrated Circuits (ICs) ===
Once all passive Components are placed and double checked, we can move on to the integrated circuits.
Soldering these is considerably more difficult, especially the ADC and DAC (U401 & U402 in v3.x) have a very small pad pitch.
Solder bridges are almost unavoidable and need to be dealt with.

First, solder is added to one pad on a corner of the IC footprint.
Then, just like the passive components, the IC is moved into the molten solder.
It is very important to align all the legs of the IC on their respective pads.
Proceed to fix one of the other legs, preferably a leg on the diagonally opposite side.
The remaining unsoldered legs can now be soldered to the board.

If solder bridges are created, they need to be removed.
One possible method to remove solder bridges is the usage of flux.
Flux is a mixture of multiple compounds that remove and prevent build up of oxides on the solder blob.
Additionally it increases the surface tension of the molten solder and therefor promotes splitting of solder blobs.
So just using a good amount of flux can fix solder bridges.

However if there is too much solder on the pads, bridges cannot be fixed just using flux. In that case we need to remove some solder.
Solder wicks are very useful for this task as its tight copper webbing wicks up any excess solder.
Place the wick on the solder blob and using the hot soldering iron, press the wick on the solder from above.
After a while, once the wick is hot enough, the solder will melt and be picked up by the wick.
Remove the wick and soldering iron simultaneously, otherwise the wick will be soldered to the pad instead, and pulling on the wick in that case can rip the pad off of the PCB.

In the timelapse you might be able to catch, how I soldered the ADC and DAC (U401 & U402 in v3.x).
Since the pitch is very small and solder bridges are very likely, I didn't even bother trying to avoid them.
After fixing the IC in place on one leg, I added a lot of solder to all pins and pads in one big blob.
With the addition of flux, most of the solder was removed using the solder wick, in the hopes that some solder would remain under the legs.
On first sight it seemed to work, but testing of the board revealed that something did not work.
Knowing this technique is not 100% reliable, a quick reheat with careful addition of small amounts of solder fixed the issue and the board was fully operational.

{{#evt:service=youtube|id=E3kZMtjD76c|alignment=right|container=frame|description=Timelapse of IC soldering ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3kZMtjD76c link to youtube])|dimensions=480}}

=== Hints and Tricks ===
There are some known points prone to failure during mounting which require increased attention. Following is a (growing) list of those potential pitfalls and some useful hints arising from our mounting experience as well as from user feedback:
* The marking for pin 1 of U102/U202 (SN74LVC1G3157) is very difficult to recognize. When you place the IC in such a way that you are able to read the printed package marking (e.g. through a magnifying glass or microscope) in a normal orientation, i.e. from left to right, then pin 1 should be at the lower left corner.
* When soldering the edge-mount SMA connector, make sure to supply enough heat (or power) to the soldering iron tip. On the other hand, do not stay with the tip too long at the connector since an excess of heat may damage the connectors dielectric.
* Be careful when soldering the u.Fl (miniature coax) connectors. Do not let the solder touch the connector rim! Apply plenty of solder to the Gnd pins to bridge the gap to the lateral pads.

== Testing the board ==
'''How-To:'''
# Assemble the MuonPi-PCB as described in this guide
# [[Raspberry_Pi_Setup#MuonPi_Setup|Software Setup]]
# [[Hardware_Setup|Hardware Setup]]
To test your fully assembled board, follow the Software- and Hardware-Setup How-To.
Once everything is installed and connected your MuonPi is ready to boot.
Since the Version 2.0 of the muondetector-deamon will set default values for the thresholds and bias-voltage.
With these defaults the blue Ch1-LED should start flashing irregularly.
You are now seeing particles pass through your scintillator!

Main Page

2021-03-10T12:40:49Z

Hgz: /* The Software */

= The MuonPi Cosmic Detector Project =
The MuonPi Project is a [https://www.raspberrypi.org/ RaspberryPi]-based system using an inexpensive plastic [[Scintillator|scintillator]] + [[Silicon photomultiplier|SiPM]] photo sensor to detect muons from cosmic air showers with a time-stamping accuracy of several tens of nanoseconds utilizing the [https://www.u-blox.com/en/product/neo-m8-series u-blox NEO-M8N GNSS] module's "timemark" feature.

==== Learn about cosmic radiation ====
* Get started with [[Cosmic Rays]], especially [[Muon]]s

*[https://www.vox.com/the-highlight/2019/7/16/17690740/cosmic-rays-universe-theory-science Extremely powerful cosmic rays are raining down on us. No one knows where they come from.] But with large-scale experiments, scientists around the world are determined to find out. ''Vox'' Jul 25, 2019

*[https://home.cern/science/physics/cosmic-rays-particles-outer-space Cosmic rays: particles from outer space] Earth is subject to a constant bombardment of subatomic particles that can reach energies far higher than the largest machines. ''CERN''

* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/mediathek/podcast/kosmische-strahlung/ "Kosmische Strahlung"] Podcast (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]
* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/thema/bmbf/astro-undastroteilchenphysik/der-kosmischen-strahlung-auf-der-spur/ "Der kosmischen Strahlung auf der Spur"] article (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]
* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/gebiet/universum/news/2017/kosmische-teilchen-mit-extragalaktischem-ursprung/ "Kosmische Teilchen mit extragalaktischem Ursprung"] article (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]

==== Learn about the detectors ====
* Basics of [[Scintillator]]s
* Find out about [[Silicon photomultiplier|Silicon Photomultipliers]]
* How our [[The Detector|Detectors]] are assembled

==== Related and similar projects ====

* [http://cosmicpi.org/ CosmicPi]: A CERN-based project that aims to build the world's largest open-source distributed cosmic ray telescope.
* [https://www.hisparc.nl/en/ HiSPARC]: A distributed muon detection network aimed for high-schools and an experience of over 15 years.
* [https://academic.oup.com/ptep/article/2020/10/103H01/5885093?login=true Thundercloud Project]: Exploring high-energy phenomena in thundercloud and lightning. [https://www.nature.com/articles/d41586-021-00395-3 -> Nature Article]

= The Hardware =

=== SiPM PCB ===
The SiPM photo sensor which detects the dim light generated inside the scintillation detector is mounted on a small [[Sipm_board|SiPM board]]. Different numbers of SiPMs and read-out configurations can be realized through it's flexible design.

=== Preamplifier ===
The [[preamplifier]] is located in close vicinity to the [[sipm_board|SiPM photodetector board]] and amplifies the weak signals for transmission to the [[muonpi_board|MuonPi]] board, where they are further processed and evaluated.

=== The MuonPi-Board ===
The main signal processing, voltage generation and parameter monitoring and adjustment is done on the Raspberry Pi plug-on [[muonpi_board|MuonPi Board]]. The board's design is open source hardware and exhibits only commercially available off-the-shelf components which can be obtained from several distributors. With some soldering experience, the MuonPi HAT can be assembled utilizing a standard soldering equipment. A how-to guide and useful hints are available in the [[Assembly Guide|Assembly Guide]].

= The Software =
The MuonPi software collection is entirely open source and [https://github.com/MuonPi available on github]
It consists of several components:
* '''muondetector-daemon''' The main control program running as a background system service on the RPi. The daemon configures, controls and supervises the components on the MuonPi HAT board, handles the comunication to the u-Blox chip and to the outside world via MQTT link and direct access socket, monitors system parameters, such as temperature, voltages, curent, rates etc., performs statistics collections, calculations and logging and much more. The daemon can be installed through the standard system software management tools (such as apt) from our [https://archive.muonpi.org package repository] or compiled from the [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector github source] and is everything which is needed to operate a MuonPi detector.
* '''muondetector-gui''' A graphical user interface (GUI) program which can be launched on any computer in the same network as the MuonPi detector in order to monitor and adjust all operation parameters of the detector, if required. The GUI is available for [https://archive.muonpi.org download] as binary package for several platforms (Raspbian, Ubuntu, Windows) or can be compiled from the current [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector github master branch].
* '''muondetector-login''' A small command line helper tool to initially set up the MQTT telemetry link. The program will ask for the supplied MQTT credentials and stores them locally in encrypted form for continuous use.
* '''muondetector-cluster''' Allows the operation of a multi-detector cluster as an entity. The program is the cluster head or interface towards the server, searches for coincidences within the cluster and sends the combined coincidence events instead of the single event telegrams to the server. One cluster instance is also running on the main server collecting the data streams from the entire network, finding the online coincidences and writing the coincidence events as well as detailed logs and statistics summaries into the MuonPi InfluxDB database. The source code is available in the [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector-cluster cluster github repository].

= Setup and Operation of the Detector =
Here you find a collection of HOW-TOs useful to set-up and operate a detector:

*[[The Detector|How to assemble the detector plates]]

*[[Assembly Guide|MuonPi HAT assembly guide]]

*[[Hardware Setup|How to set up the detector hardware]]

*[[Raspberry Pi Setup|How to install and set up the MuonPi software]]

*[[MuonPi - Grafana|How to view your detector data using Grafana]]

*Detector Surveillance through a [[MuonPi Telegram Bot|Telegram Bot]]

*[[time synchronization|How to set up Time Synchronization of the RPi through the GNSS receiver]]

The completed setup is fairly insensitive to the location where it will operate.
Basic requirement is a good GPS signal, low humidity and obviously power and network connectivity.
A stable temperature for the scintillator and preamp is desirable, as it affects the noise level of the setup.
Muons will penetrate several meters of granite rock, so placing the detector in the basement leaves the muon measurements unaffected.
However due to radon collection in basement rooms and potassium decay a slightly higher natural radioactive background can be observed.

In case there are problems with the set-up or operation of the detector, have a look in the [[Troubleshooting]] section.

= Related Articles =

[[News and articles]] about cosmic rays and similar projects.

= Other languages =

* [[Main Page/de]]

= Admin Area =

Useful [[resources]] for admins.

= [[user detectors gallery|Gallery of Users' Detectors]] =

= About this Wiki =
* How to edit? [[help for creators]]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Configuration_settings List of config variables]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki-FAQ]
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce Mailing list of new MediaWiki version announcements]

----
Sandbox page for testing/playing:
* [[Sandbox]]

Main Page

2021-03-10T12:40:15Z

Hgz: /* The Software */

= The MuonPi Cosmic Detector Project =
The MuonPi Project is a [https://www.raspberrypi.org/ RaspberryPi]-based system using an inexpensive plastic [[Scintillator|scintillator]] + [[Silicon photomultiplier|SiPM]] photo sensor to detect muons from cosmic air showers with a time-stamping accuracy of several tens of nanoseconds utilizing the [https://www.u-blox.com/en/product/neo-m8-series u-blox NEO-M8N GNSS] module's "timemark" feature.

==== Learn about cosmic radiation ====
* Get started with [[Cosmic Rays]], especially [[Muon]]s

*[https://www.vox.com/the-highlight/2019/7/16/17690740/cosmic-rays-universe-theory-science Extremely powerful cosmic rays are raining down on us. No one knows where they come from.] But with large-scale experiments, scientists around the world are determined to find out. ''Vox'' Jul 25, 2019

*[https://home.cern/science/physics/cosmic-rays-particles-outer-space Cosmic rays: particles from outer space] Earth is subject to a constant bombardment of subatomic particles that can reach energies far higher than the largest machines. ''CERN''

* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/mediathek/podcast/kosmische-strahlung/ "Kosmische Strahlung"] Podcast (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]
* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/thema/bmbf/astro-undastroteilchenphysik/der-kosmischen-strahlung-auf-der-spur/ "Der kosmischen Strahlung auf der Spur"] article (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]
* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/gebiet/universum/news/2017/kosmische-teilchen-mit-extragalaktischem-ursprung/ "Kosmische Teilchen mit extragalaktischem Ursprung"] article (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]

==== Learn about the detectors ====
* Basics of [[Scintillator]]s
* Find out about [[Silicon photomultiplier|Silicon Photomultipliers]]
* How our [[The Detector|Detectors]] are assembled

==== Related and similar projects ====

* [http://cosmicpi.org/ CosmicPi]: A CERN-based project that aims to build the world's largest open-source distributed cosmic ray telescope.
* [https://www.hisparc.nl/en/ HiSPARC]: A distributed muon detection network aimed for high-schools and an experience of over 15 years.
* [https://academic.oup.com/ptep/article/2020/10/103H01/5885093?login=true Thundercloud Project]: Exploring high-energy phenomena in thundercloud and lightning. [https://www.nature.com/articles/d41586-021-00395-3 -> Nature Article]

= The Hardware =

=== SiPM PCB ===
The SiPM photo sensor which detects the dim light generated inside the scintillation detector is mounted on a small [[Sipm_board|SiPM board]]. Different numbers of SiPMs and read-out configurations can be realized through it's flexible design.

=== Preamplifier ===
The [[preamplifier]] is located in close vicinity to the [[sipm_board|SiPM photodetector board]] and amplifies the weak signals for transmission to the [[muonpi_board|MuonPi]] board, where they are further processed and evaluated.

=== The MuonPi-Board ===
The main signal processing, voltage generation and parameter monitoring and adjustment is done on the Raspberry Pi plug-on [[muonpi_board|MuonPi Board]]. The board's design is open source hardware and exhibits only commercially available off-the-shelf components which can be obtained from several distributors. With some soldering experience, the MuonPi HAT can be assembled utilizing a standard soldering equipment. A how-to guide and useful hints are available in the [[Assembly Guide|Assembly Guide]].

= The Software =
The MuonPi software collection is entirely open source and [https://github.com/MuonPi available on github]
It consists of several components:
* '''muondetector-daemon''' The main control program running as a background system service on the RPi. The daemon configures, controls and supervises the components on the MuonPi HAT board, handles the comunication to the u-Blox chip and to the outside world via MQTT link and direct access socket, monitors system parameters, such as temperature, voltages, curent, rates etc., performs statistics collections, calculations and logging and much more. The daemon can be installed through the standard system software management tools (such as apt) from our [https://archive.muonpi.org package repository] or compiled from the [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector github source] and is everything which is needed to operate a MuonPi detector.
* '''muondetector-gui''' A graphical user interface (GUI) program which can be launched on any computer in the same network as the MuonPi detector in order to monitor and adjust all operation parameters of the detector, if required. The GUI is available for [https://archive.muonpi.org download] as binary package for several platforms (Raspbian, Ubuntu, Windows) or can be compiled from the current [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector github master branch].
* '''muondetector-login''' A small command line helper tool to initially set up the MQTT telemetry link. The program will ask for the supplied MQTT credentials and stores them locally in encrypted form for continuous use.
* '''muondetector-cluster''' Allows the operation of a multi-detector cluster as an entity. The program is the cluster head or interface towards the server, searches for coincidences within the cluster and sends the combined coincidence events instead of the single event telegrams to the server. One cluster instance is also running on the main server collecting the data streams from the entire network, finding the online coincidences and writing the coincidence events as well as detailed logs and statistic summaries into the MuonPi InfluxDB database. The source code is available in the [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector-cluster cluster github repository].

= Setup and Operation of the Detector =
Here you find a collection of HOW-TOs useful to set-up and operate a detector:

*[[The Detector|How to assemble the detector plates]]

*[[Assembly Guide|MuonPi HAT assembly guide]]

*[[Hardware Setup|How to set up the detector hardware]]

*[[Raspberry Pi Setup|How to install and set up the MuonPi software]]

*[[MuonPi - Grafana|How to view your detector data using Grafana]]

*Detector Surveillance through a [[MuonPi Telegram Bot|Telegram Bot]]

*[[time synchronization|How to set up Time Synchronization of the RPi through the GNSS receiver]]

The completed setup is fairly insensitive to the location where it will operate.
Basic requirement is a good GPS signal, low humidity and obviously power and network connectivity.
A stable temperature for the scintillator and preamp is desirable, as it affects the noise level of the setup.
Muons will penetrate several meters of granite rock, so placing the detector in the basement leaves the muon measurements unaffected.
However due to radon collection in basement rooms and potassium decay a slightly higher natural radioactive background can be observed.

In case there are problems with the set-up or operation of the detector, have a look in the [[Troubleshooting]] section.

= Related Articles =

[[News and articles]] about cosmic rays and similar projects.

= Other languages =

* [[Main Page/de]]

= Admin Area =

Useful [[resources]] for admins.

= [[user detectors gallery|Gallery of Users' Detectors]] =

= About this Wiki =
* How to edit? [[help for creators]]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Configuration_settings List of config variables]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki-FAQ]
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce Mailing list of new MediaWiki version announcements]

----
Sandbox page for testing/playing:
* [[Sandbox]]

Main Page

2021-03-10T12:29:13Z

Hgz: /* Setup and Operation of the Detector */

= The MuonPi Cosmic Detector Project =
The MuonPi Project is a [https://www.raspberrypi.org/ RaspberryPi]-based system using an inexpensive plastic [[Scintillator|scintillator]] + [[Silicon photomultiplier|SiPM]] photo sensor to detect muons from cosmic air showers with a time-stamping accuracy of several tens of nanoseconds utilizing the [https://www.u-blox.com/en/product/neo-m8-series u-blox NEO-M8N GNSS] module's "timemark" feature.

==== Learn about cosmic radiation ====
* Get started with [[Cosmic Rays]], especially [[Muon]]s

*[https://www.vox.com/the-highlight/2019/7/16/17690740/cosmic-rays-universe-theory-science Extremely powerful cosmic rays are raining down on us. No one knows where they come from.] But with large-scale experiments, scientists around the world are determined to find out. ''Vox'' Jul 25, 2019

*[https://home.cern/science/physics/cosmic-rays-particles-outer-space Cosmic rays: particles from outer space] Earth is subject to a constant bombardment of subatomic particles that can reach energies far higher than the largest machines. ''CERN''

* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/mediathek/podcast/kosmische-strahlung/ "Kosmische Strahlung"] Podcast (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]
* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/thema/bmbf/astro-undastroteilchenphysik/der-kosmischen-strahlung-auf-der-spur/ "Der kosmischen Strahlung auf der Spur"] article (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]
* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/gebiet/universum/news/2017/kosmische-teilchen-mit-extragalaktischem-ursprung/ "Kosmische Teilchen mit extragalaktischem Ursprung"] article (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]

==== Learn about the detectors ====
* Basics of [[Scintillator]]s
* Find out about [[Silicon photomultiplier|Silicon Photomultipliers]]
* How our [[The Detector|Detectors]] are assembled

==== Related and similar projects ====

* [http://cosmicpi.org/ CosmicPi]: A CERN-based project that aims to build the world's largest open-source distributed cosmic ray telescope.
* [https://www.hisparc.nl/en/ HiSPARC]: A distributed muon detection network aimed for high-schools and an experience of over 15 years.
* [https://academic.oup.com/ptep/article/2020/10/103H01/5885093?login=true Thundercloud Project]: Exploring high-energy phenomena in thundercloud and lightning. [https://www.nature.com/articles/d41586-021-00395-3 -> Nature Article]

= The Hardware =

=== SiPM PCB ===
The SiPM photo sensor which detects the dim light generated inside the scintillation detector is mounted on a small [[Sipm_board|SiPM board]]. Different numbers of SiPMs and read-out configurations can be realized through it's flexible design.

=== Preamplifier ===
The [[preamplifier]] is located in close vicinity to the [[sipm_board|SiPM photodetector board]] and amplifies the weak signals for transmission to the [[muonpi_board|MuonPi]] board, where they are further processed and evaluated.

=== The MuonPi-Board ===
The main signal processing, voltage generation and parameter monitoring and adjustment is done on the Raspberry Pi plug-on [[muonpi_board|MuonPi Board]]. The board's design is open source hardware and exhibits only commercially available off-the-shelf components which can be obtained from several distributors. With some soldering experience, the MuonPi HAT can be assembled utilizing a standard soldering equipment. A how-to guide and useful hints are available in the [[Assembly Guide|Assembly Guide]].

= The Software =
The MuonPi software collection is entirely open source and [https://github.com/MuonPi available on github]
It consists of several components:
* '''muondetector-daemon''' The main control program running as a background system service on the RPi. The daemon configures, controls and supervises the components on the MuonPi HAT board, handles the comunication to the u-Blox chip and to the outside world via MQTT link and direct access socket, monitors system parameters, such as temperature, voltages, curent, rates etc., performs statistics collections, calculations and logging and much more. The daemon can be installed through the standard system software management tools (such as apt) from our [https://archive.muonpi.org package repository] or compiled from the [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector github source] and is everything which is needed to operate a MuonPi detector.
* '''muondetector-gui''' A graphical user interface (GUI) program which can be launched on any computer in the same network as the MuonPi detector in order to monitor and adjust all operation parameters of the detector, if required. The GUI is available for [https://archive.muonpi.org download] as binary package for several platforms (Raspbian, Ubuntu, Windows) or can be compiled from the current [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector github master branch].
* '''muondetector-login''' A small command line helper tool to initially set up the MQTT telemetry link. The program will ask for the supplied MQTT credentials and stores them locally in encrypted form for continuous use.
* '''muondetector-cluster''' Allows the operation of a multi-detector cluster as an entity. The program is the cluster head or interface towards the server, searches for coincidences within the cluster and sends the combined coincidence events instead of the single event telegrams to the server. This tool is in development phase with more information about it's utilization to come in near future.

= Setup and Operation of the Detector =
Here you find a collection of HOW-TOs useful to set-up and operate a detector:

*[[The Detector|How to assemble the detector plates]]

*[[Assembly Guide|MuonPi HAT assembly guide]]

*[[Hardware Setup|How to set up the detector hardware]]

*[[Raspberry Pi Setup|How to install and set up the MuonPi software]]

*[[MuonPi - Grafana|How to view your detector data using Grafana]]

*Detector Surveillance through a [[MuonPi Telegram Bot|Telegram Bot]]

*[[time synchronization|How to set up Time Synchronization of the RPi through the GNSS receiver]]

The completed setup is fairly insensitive to the location where it will operate.
Basic requirement is a good GPS signal, low humidity and obviously power and network connectivity.
A stable temperature for the scintillator and preamp is desirable, as it affects the noise level of the setup.
Muons will penetrate several meters of granite rock, so placing the detector in the basement leaves the muon measurements unaffected.
However due to radon collection in basement rooms and potassium decay a slightly higher natural radioactive background can be observed.

In case there are problems with the set-up or operation of the detector, have a look in the [[Troubleshooting]] section.

= Related Articles =

[[News and articles]] about cosmic rays and similar projects.

= Other languages =

* [[Main Page/de]]

= Admin Area =

Useful [[resources]] for admins.

= [[user detectors gallery|Gallery of Users' Detectors]] =

= About this Wiki =
* How to edit? [[help for creators]]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Configuration_settings List of config variables]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki-FAQ]
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce Mailing list of new MediaWiki version announcements]

----
Sandbox page for testing/playing:
* [[Sandbox]]

Time synchronization

2021-03-10T12:13:36Z

Hgz: /* Setup of the chrony daemon */

This tutorial describes, how to set up the time synchronization of the system clock by disciplining the kernel of the RPi with the Ublox's PPS (Pulse-Per-Second) signal using [https://chrony.tuxfamily.org/ chronyd].

=== Install the pps kernel driver module ===
Edit the /boot/config.txt and add the following line:

<code>dtoverlay=pps-gpio,gpiopin=18</code>

This will activate the kernel pps driver module at startup listening to GPIO pin 18 to which the timepulse output of the uBlox is connected on the MuonPi HAT board. After a restart, one should see the activated driver in the kernel module list.
[[File:Lsmod-pps.png|thumb|lsmod showing the loaded pps_gpio kernel module]]

To test the pps functionality, the command-line-tool <code>ppstest</code> may be used (install with <code>sudo apt install pps-tools</code>).

[[File:Ppstest-screen.png|thumb|Checking the timepulse signal with ppstest.]]

=== Setup of the chrony daemon ===
In order to discipline the system clock, the pps signal has to be regarded and from the mean time difference a correction has to be applied to the clock speed. This can be realized with the chrony-daemon. Install chrony with <code>sudo apt install chrony</code> and edit the config file in <code>/etc/chrony/chrony.conf</code>. Modify or add lines as shown below.

# Welcome to the chrony configuration file. See chrony.conf(5) for more
# information about usuable directives.
# use a server from a public pool of ntp servers
pool 2.debian.pool.ntp.org iburst
# add another server within the local network to prevent synchronization loss in case of internet outages, not mandatory
server 192.168.2.1 iburst 
# add the pps device as a trusted synchronization source
refclock PPS /dev/pps0 refid PPS trust
...

Finally, restart chronyd with <code>sudo systemctl restart chrony.service</code> and observe the activity e.g. with:

pi@raspberrypi:~ $ chronyc sources
210 Number of sources = 4
MS Name/IP address Stratum Poll Reach LastRx Last sample
===============================================================================
#* PPS 0 4 377 17 +195ns[ +823ns] +/- 208ns
^? fb07-unbekannt2.physik.u> 0 10 0 - +0ns[ +0ns] +/- 0ns
^- ns1.hrz.uni-giessen.de 2 9 377 184 -239us[ -238us] +/- 39ms
^- ns2.hrz.uni-giessen.de 2 9 377 240 -129us[ -127us] +/- 30ms

You may also look into more detailed outputs with <code>chronyc sourcestats</code> and <code>chronyc tracking</code>.

Note, that the synchronization via pps is in operation only when a reliable ntp source for the coarse synchronization is available. This means, that during network outages the pulling of the system clock via the pps time pulse will not be provided. One remedy to this would be the inclusion of the GNSS-provided absolute time as a time source for chrony. This still has to be tested and documented yet.

Time synchronization

2021-03-10T12:13:16Z

Hgz: /* Setup of the chrony daemon */

This tutorial describes, how to set up the time synchronization of the system clock by disciplining the kernel of the RPi with the Ublox's PPS (Pulse-Per-Second) signal using [https://chrony.tuxfamily.org/ chronyd].

=== Install the pps kernel driver module ===
Edit the /boot/config.txt and add the following line:

<code>dtoverlay=pps-gpio,gpiopin=18</code>

This will activate the kernel pps driver module at startup listening to GPIO pin 18 to which the timepulse output of the uBlox is connected on the MuonPi HAT board. After a restart, one should see the activated driver in the kernel module list.
[[File:Lsmod-pps.png|thumb|lsmod showing the loaded pps_gpio kernel module]]

To test the pps functionality, the command-line-tool <code>ppstest</code> may be used (install with <code>sudo apt install pps-tools</code>).

[[File:Ppstest-screen.png|thumb|Checking the timepulse signal with ppstest.]]

=== Setup of the chrony daemon ===
In order to discipline the system clock, the pps signal has to be regarded and from the mean time difference a correction has to be applied to the clock speed. This can be realized with the chrony-daemon. Install chrony with <code>sudo apt install chrony</code> and edit the config file in <code>/etc/chrony/chrony.conf</code>. Modify or add lines as shown below.

# Welcome to the chrony configuration file. See chrony.conf(5) for more
# information about usuable directives.
# use a server from a public pool of ntp servers
pool 2.debian.pool.ntp.org iburst
# add another server within the local network to prevent synchronization loss in case of internet outages, not mandatory
server 192.168.2.1 iburst 
# add the pps device as a trusted synchronization source
refclock PPS /dev/pps0 refid PPS trust
...

Finally, restart chronyd with <code>sudo systemctl restart chrony.service</code> and observe the activity e.g. with:

pi@raspberrypi:~ $ chronyc sources
210 Number of sources = 4
MS Name/IP address Stratum Poll Reach LastRx Last sample
===============================================================================
#* PPS 0 4 377 17 +195ns[ +823ns] +/- 208ns
^? fb07-unbekannt2.physik.u> 0 10 0 - +0ns[ +0ns] +/- 0ns
^- ns1.hrz.uni-giessen.de 2 9 377 184 -239us[ -238us] +/- 39ms
^- ns2.hrz.uni-giessen.de 2 9 377 240 -129us[ -127us] +/- 30ms

You may also look in more detailed outputs with <code>chronyc sourcestats</code> and <code>chronyc tracking</code>.

Note, that the synchronization via pps is in operation only when a reliable ntp source for the coarse synchronization is available. This means, that during network outages the pulling of the system clock via the pps time pulse will not be provided. One remedy to this would be the inclusion of the GNSS-provided absolute time as a time source for chrony. This still has to be tested and documented yet.

Time synchronization

2021-03-10T12:10:22Z

Hgz: /* Setup of the chrony daemon */

This tutorial describes, how to set up the time synchronization of the system clock by disciplining the kernel of the RPi with the Ublox's PPS (Pulse-Per-Second) signal using [https://chrony.tuxfamily.org/ chronyd].

=== Install the pps kernel driver module ===
Edit the /boot/config.txt and add the following line:

<code>dtoverlay=pps-gpio,gpiopin=18</code>

This will activate the kernel pps driver module at startup listening to GPIO pin 18 to which the timepulse output of the uBlox is connected on the MuonPi HAT board. After a restart, one should see the activated driver in the kernel module list.
[[File:Lsmod-pps.png|thumb|lsmod showing the loaded pps_gpio kernel module]]

To test the pps functionality, the command-line-tool <code>ppstest</code> may be used (install with <code>sudo apt install pps-tools</code>).

[[File:Ppstest-screen.png|thumb|Checking the timepulse signal with ppstest.]]

=== Setup of the chrony daemon ===
In order to discipline the system clock, the pps signal has to be regarded and from the mean time difference a correction has to be applied to the clock speed. This can be realized with the chrony-daemon. Install chrony with <code>sudo apt install chrony</code> and edit the config file in <code>/etc/chrony/chrony.conf</code>. Modify or add lines as shown below.

# Welcome to the chrony configuration file. See chrony.conf(5) for more
# information about usuable directives.
# use a server from a public pool of ntp servers
pool 2.debian.pool.ntp.org iburst
# add another server within the local network to prevent synchronization loss in case of internet outages, not mandatory
server 192.168.2.1 iburst 
# add the pps device as a trusted synchronization source
refclock PPS /dev/pps0 refid PPS trust
...

Finally, restart chronyd with <code>sudo systemctl restart chrony.service</code> and observe the activity e.g. with:

pi@raspberrypi:~ $ chronyc sources
210 Number of sources = 4
MS Name/IP address Stratum Poll Reach LastRx Last sample
===============================================================================
#* PPS 0 4 377 17 +195ns[ +823ns] +/- 208ns
^? fb07-unbekannt2.physik.u> 0 10 0 - +0ns[ +0ns] +/- 0ns
^- ns1.hrz.uni-giessen.de 2 9 377 184 -239us[ -238us] +/- 39ms
^- ns2.hrz.uni-giessen.de 2 9 377 240 -129us[ -127us] +/- 30ms

Note, that the synchronization via pps is in operation only when a reliable ntp source for the coarse synchronization is available. This means, that during network outages the pulling of the system clock via the pps time pulse will not be provided. One remedy to this would be the inclusion of the GNSS-provided absolute time as a time source for chrony. This still has to be tested and documented yet.

Time synchronization

2021-03-10T12:09:38Z

Hgz: /* Setup of the chrony daemon */

This tutorial describes, how to set up the time synchronization of the system clock by disciplining the kernel of the RPi with the Ublox's PPS (Pulse-Per-Second) signal using [https://chrony.tuxfamily.org/ chronyd].

=== Install the pps kernel driver module ===
Edit the /boot/config.txt and add the following line:

<code>dtoverlay=pps-gpio,gpiopin=18</code>

This will activate the kernel pps driver module at startup listening to GPIO pin 18 to which the timepulse output of the uBlox is connected on the MuonPi HAT board. After a restart, one should see the activated driver in the kernel module list.
[[File:Lsmod-pps.png|thumb|lsmod showing the loaded pps_gpio kernel module]]

To test the pps functionality, the command-line-tool <code>ppstest</code> may be used (install with <code>sudo apt install pps-tools</code>).

[[File:Ppstest-screen.png|thumb|Checking the timepulse signal with ppstest.]]

=== Setup of the chrony daemon ===
In order to discipline the system clock, the pps signal has to be regarded and from the mean time difference a correction has to be applied to the clock speed. This can be realized with the chrony-daemon. Install chrony with <code>sudo apt install chrony</code> and edit the config file in <code>/etc/chrony/chrony.conf</code>. Modify or add lines as shown below.

# Welcome to the chrony configuration file. See chrony.conf(5) for more
# information about usuable directives.
# use a server from a public pool of ntp servers
pool 2.debian.pool.ntp.org iburst
# add another server within the local network to prevent synchronization loss in case of internet outages, not mandatory
server 192.168.2.1 iburst 
# add the pps device as a trusted synchronization source
refclock PPS /dev/pps0 refid PPS trust
...

Finally, restart chronyd with <code>sudo systemctl restart chrony.service</code> and observe the activity e.g. with:

pi@raspberrypi:~ $ chronyc sources
210 Number of sources = 4
MS Name/IP address Stratum Poll Reach LastRx Last sample
===============================================================================
#* PPS 0 4 377 17 +195ns[ +823ns] +/- 208ns
^? fb07-unbekannt2.physik.u> 0 10 0 - +0ns[ +0ns] +/- 0ns
^- ns1.hrz.uni-giessen.de 2 9 377 184 -239us[ -238us] +/- 39ms
^- ns2.hrz.uni-giessen.de 2 9 377 240 -129us[ -127us] +/- 30ms

Note, that the synchronization via pps is in operation only when a reliable ntp source for the course synchronization is available. This means, that during network outages the pulling of the system clock via the pps time pulse will not be provided. One remedy to this would be the inclusion of the GNSS-provided absolute time as a time source for chrony. This still has to be tested and documented yet.

2021-03-10T11:50:15Z

Hgz: /* Install the pps kernel driver module */

Time synchronization

2021-03-10T11:40:47Z

Hgz: /* Install the pps kernel driver module */

Time synchronization

2021-03-10T11:40:07Z

Hgz: /* Install the pps kernel driver module */

File:Ppstest-screen.png

2021-03-10T11:37:56Z

Hgz: Screenshot of testing the sampling of the timepulse signal with ppstest.

== Summary ==
Screenshot of testing the sampling of the timepulse signal with ppstest.

Time synchronization

2021-03-10T11:36:26Z

Hgz: /* Install the pps kernel driver module */

Time synchronization

2021-03-10T11:36:06Z

Hgz: /* Install the pps kernel driver module */

Time synchronization

2021-03-10T11:28:41Z

Hgz: /* Install the pps kernel driver module */

File:Lsmod-pps.png

2021-03-10T11:27:06Z

Hgz: Screenshot showing the loaded pps_gpio kernel driver module with lsmod.

== Summary ==
Screenshot showing the loaded pps_gpio kernel driver module with lsmod.

Time synchronization

2021-03-10T11:21:37Z

Hgz: /* Install the pps kernel driver module */

2021-01-18T09:45:49Z

Hgz: /* Admin Area */

= The MuonPi Cosmic Detector Project =
The MuonPi Project is a [https://www.raspberrypi.org/ RaspberryPi]-based system using an inexpensive plastic [[Scintillator|scintillator]] + [[Silicon photomultiplier|SiPM]] photo sensor to detect muons from cosmic air showers with a time-stamping accuracy of several tens of nanoseconds utilizing the [https://www.u-blox.com/en/product/neo-m8-series u-blox NEO-M8N GNSS] module's "timemark" feature.

==== Learn about cosmic radiation ====
* Get started with [[Cosmic Rays]], especially [[Muon]]s

*[https://www.vox.com/the-highlight/2019/7/16/17690740/cosmic-rays-universe-theory-science Extremely powerful cosmic rays are raining down on us. No one knows where they come from.] But with large-scale experiments, scientists around the world are determined to find out. ''Vox'' Jul 25, 2019

*[https://home.cern/science/physics/cosmic-rays-particles-outer-space Cosmic rays: particles from outer space] Earth is subject to a constant bombardment of subatomic particles that can reach energies far higher than the largest machines. ''CERN''

* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/mediathek/podcast/kosmische-strahlung/ "Kosmische Strahlung"] Podcast (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]
* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/thema/bmbf/astro-undastroteilchenphysik/der-kosmischen-strahlung-auf-der-spur/ "Der kosmischen Strahlung auf der Spur"] article (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]
* [https://www.weltderphysik.de/gebiet/universum/news/2017/kosmische-teilchen-mit-extragalaktischem-ursprung/ "Kosmische Teilchen mit extragalaktischem Ursprung"] article (in German) on [https://www.weltderphysik.de weltderphysik.de]

==== Learn about the detectors ====
* Basics of [[Scintillator]]s
* Find out about [[Silicon photomultiplier|Silicon Photomultipliers]]
* How our [[The Detector|Detectors]] are assembled

= The Hardware =

=== SiPM PCB ===
The SiPM photo sensor which detects the dim light generated inside the scintillation detector is mounted on a small [[Sipm_board|SiPM board]]. Different numbers of SiPMs and read-out configurations can be realized through it's flexible design.

=== Preamplifier ===
The [[preamplifier]] is located in close vicinity to the [[sipm_board|SiPM photodetector board]] and amplifies the weak signals for transmission to the [[muonpi_board|MuonPi]] board, where they are further processed and evaluated.

=== The MuonPi-Board ===
The main signal processing, voltage generation and parameter monitoring and adjustment is done on the Raspberry Pi plug-on [[muonpi_board|MuonPi Board]]. The board's design is open source hardware and exhibits only commercially available off-the-shelf components which can be obtained from several distributors. With some soldering experience, the MuonPi HAT can be assembled utilizing a standard soldering equipment. A how-to guide and useful hints are available in the [[Assembly Guide|Assembly Guide]].

= The Software =
The MuonPi software collection is entirely open source and [https://github.com/MuonPi available on github]
It consists of several components:
* '''muondetector-daemon''' The main control program running as a background system service on the RPi. The daemon configures, controls and supervises the components on the MuonPi HAT board, handles the comunication to the u-Blox chip and to the outside world via MQTT link and direct access socket, monitors system parameters, such as temperature, voltages, curent, rates etc., performs statistics collections, calculations and logging and much more. The daemon can be installed through the standard system software management tools (such as apt) from our [https://archive.muonpi.org package repository] or compiled from the [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector github source] and is everything which is needed to operate a MuonPi detector.
* '''muondetector-gui''' A graphical user interface (GUI) program which can be launched on any computer in the same network as the MuonPi detector in order to monitor and adjust all operation parameters of the detector, if required. The GUI is available for [https://archive.muonpi.org download] as binary package for several platforms (Raspbian, Ubuntu, Windows) or can be compiled from the current [https://github.com/MuonPi/muondetector github master branch].
* '''muondetector-login''' A small command line helper tool to initially set up the MQTT telemetry link. The program will ask for the supplied MQTT credentials and stores them locally in encrypted form for continuous use.
* '''muondetector-cluster''' Allows the operation of a multi-detector cluster as an entity. The program is the cluster head or interface towards the server, searches for coincidences within the cluster and sends the combined coincidence events instead of the single event telegrams to the server. This tool is in development phase with more information about it's utilization to come in near future.

= Setup and Operation of the Detector =
Here you find a collection of HOW-TOs useful to set-up and operate a detector:

*[[The Detector|How to assemble the detector plates]]

*[[Assembly Guide|MuonPi HAT assembly guide]]

*[[Hardware Setup|How to set up the detector hardware]]

*[[Raspberry Pi Setup|How to install and set up the MuonPi software]]

*[[MuonPi - Grafana|How to view your detector data using Grafana]]

*Detector Surveillance through a [[MuonPi Telegram Bot|Telegram Bot]]

The completed setup is fairly insensitive to the location where it will operate.
Basic requirement is a good GPS signal, low humidity and obviously power and network connectivity.
A stable temperature for the scintillator and preamp is desirable, as it affects the noise level of the setup.
Muons will penetrate several meters of granite rock, so placing the detector in the basement leaves the muon measurements unaffected.
However due to radon collection in basement rooms and potassium decay a slightly higher natural radioactive background can be observed.

In case there are problems with the set-up or operation of the detector, have a look in the [[Troubleshooting]] section.

= Related Articles =

[[News and articles]] about cosmic rays and similar projects.

= Other languages =

* [[Main Page/de]]

= Admin Area =

Useful [[resources]] for admins.

= Users' Detectors Galery =

= About this Wiki =
* How to edit? [[help for creators]]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:Configuration_settings List of config variables]
* [http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki-FAQ]
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce Mailing list of new MediaWiki version announcements]

----
Sandbox page for testing/playing:
* [[Sandbox]]

The Detector

2021-01-15T18:25:44Z

Hgz: /* Assembly Steps */

The current detector design is based on a plastic scintillator, wrapped in different types of foil, and a Silicon Photomultiplier for the collection of scintillation light. In this article, the assembly of a detector module will be explained.

__TOC__

= How the detector works =

Simple working principle based on the scintillator and SiPM page, putting it in context with our project.

= How to build a muon detector =

== Material List ==
Independent of the size and shape of the scintillator the following materials and tools are used for building a scintillator detector:
[[File:Detector Assembly 001.jpg|thumb|Fully-wrapped detectors with label]]
* Kapton stencil
* Teflon foil
* Aluminum foil
* Reflective foil
* Black tape
* Pond liner (thick black foil)
* Optical grease
* Scintillator
* Silicon Photomultiplier (SiPM) on PCB chip
* Preamplifier
* Scalpel
* Scissors
* Tweezer

== Assembly Steps ==

# '''Cutting the scintillator:''' In the case for the MuonPi detectors the scintillators are provided as plates of 10x250x250 mm^3. Depending on the [[#Detector geometry|desired geometry]], the scintillators are cut with a circular saw to fit the design. Afterwards, all edges are polished.
# '''Cutting the Kapton stencil:''' The stencil is used as a template and carrier for cutting the thin Teflon and aluminum foil. It is usually cut in the same base shape as the scintillator but slightly larger to accommodate the edges of the scintillator. The stencil is reusable and only has to be crafted once.
# '''Cutting and wrapping the Teflon foil:''' The thin layer of Teflon foil is unrolled and laid out on top of the stencil, removing all wrinkles carefully. Guided by the outlines of the stencil, the Teflon foil is cut using a sharp scalpel. Depending on the desired thickness of the Teflon on the scintillator, this step is repeated several times. Finally, the scintillator is placed with its top face centered on top of the Teflon cut-out and the surplus of Teflon is carefully folded upwards to cover the edges of the scintillator. Now the scintillator can be flipped such that the top faces downwards and the stencil is carefully removed. To cover the other face, this step is repeated.
# '''Cutting and wrapping the aluminum foil:''' The aluminum foil, while using the stencil, is prepared and attached to the scintillator in a similar fashion. The foil is fixed with reflective tape.
# '''Cutting and taping the pond liner:''' A layer of thick pond liner is used to cover both faces of the scintillator. For this, the base shape of the scintillator is used to cut the liner. Using double-sided tape, the liner is glued on both faces.
# '''Taping the edges:''' Black tape is used to cover all left-over uncovered spots of the scintillator apart from the light-collection faces. Now the scintillator is ready to be coupled with the photo-detector.
# '''Attaching the SiPM:''' The SiPM sitting on its PCB chip and equipped with a reflective mask is covered with a small amount of optical grease and is pressed against the light collection surface. While maintaining the pressure, the chip is fixed to the scintillator with black tape. Since the preamplifier and the SiPM are designed modular, the preamplifier chip can be plugged on top of the SiPM chip.
<gallery mode="packed-hover">
Detector_Assembly_002.jpg|Kapton stencil and tools
Detector_Assembly_003.jpg|Teflon foil outlined on stencil
Detector_Assembly_004.jpg|Prepared aluminum foil ready for assembly
Detector_Assembly_005.jpg|Both types of foil fixed with reflective tape
Detector_Assembly_006.jpg|Layer of pond liner added
</gallery>

We have a '''time lapse video of a full detector assembly run''' on YouTube [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_O-eDJvdJU here].

= Detector Specifications =
Our detectors come in many different geometries and configurations.
== Detector Geometry ==
Several different detector geometries can be build from the raw scintillator plates of type EJ-248M provided by our supplier [https://eljentechnology.com/products/plastic-scintillators Eljen]. The uncut scintillator plates have a dimension of 10x250x250 mm^3. Additionally, we recycle former hexagonal "veto" plastic scintillators from the TAPS detector of the [https://wwwa2.kph.uni-mainz.de/a2detector-system/ A2 detector system]
=== The Original ===
The original detector geometry is chosen to maximize the light collection efficiency while having a large area for a high muon count rate. This geometry was determined both experimentally <ref>L. Nies, ''Development of a SiPM-based readout-module for the characterization of various scintillation materials'', (University of Giessen, Bachelor Thesis, August 2017), [https://www.uni-giessen.de/fbz/fb07/fachgebiete/physik/institute/iipi/arbeitsgruppen/ag-brinkmann/forschung/theses/Nies_Lukas_BSc_Thesis_SiPM.pdf link]</ref> and theoretically <ref>S. Peter, ''Simulation of Cosmic Air Showers and Simulation Studies for the Geometry Optimization of a Scintillation Detector'', (University of Giessen, Bachelor Thesis, September 2019), [https://www.uni-giessen.de/fbz/fb07/fachgebiete/physik/institute/iipi/arbeitsgruppen/ag-brinkmann/forschung/theses/Bachelor_Sven_Peter.pdf link]</ref> to yield the best performance for a given detector area.
=== The Original - Half Size ===
The U-BLOX chip can only assign accurate timestamps to a limited amount of events per second. A high muon flux can lead to a large dead time (time interval in which the detector is "blind" to events). With the Original type detector, we currently (HAT version 3.1) encounter a deadtime of 20% to 30%, depending on the threshold level. In practice, this means that we lose about one-third of all events. From an economic point of view, it makes sense to reduce the detector size to reduce the muon flux to reduce the dead time. Cutting the Original in half will help to make the detector more efficient (tests pending).
=== The Hexagonal ===
Reusing the "veto" plastic scintillators from the TAPS detector, we have an excellent small and versatile detector for measuring cosmic muons. Significantly smaller than the standard type, the detector dead time imposes no problem.

<gallery mode="packed-hover">
scintillator_original_geometry.png|Original Geometry
scintillator_original_half_geometry.png|Original Half Geometry
scintillator_hex_geometry.png|Hex Geometry
</gallery>

== Detector label ==
The detectors are labeled for proper documentation after the assembly. On the label, the following information about the detector is persisted:
* The detector's serial number (SN) which allows us to trace the history of a detector.
* The scintillator base material
* The type of the SiPM photosensor
* How the SiPM sensor is configured. For multiple-SiPM readout, several possible configurations exist, such as parallel, series or hybrid.
* The operation voltage (reverse bias) at which the detector was tested.
* Date of assembly and signature of the assembling person

[[File:Detector-label_new.png|thumb|Label for the detectors.]]

= References =
<references />